Just more pictures.
I am remodeling my basement. I have a Rigid 1/2 HP sewage pump that is being used for the basement bathroom. Every time it operates, sewer gas comes through and since the furnace is right by it, it fills the entire house with the odor and dissipates in about 5 minutes.
I just want to know whats the best way to replace the lid on this thing. If you look at the pics, there is foam around it because the lid doesnt fully cover the hole. Also, if you notice there are a lot of block dots around the unit. Well, those are all of the flies that come from it every summer (my assumption).
The bolts around the unit are rusted, but the lid isnt attached so it comes off pretty easily. My problem is that I want to know exactly what to do, before I mess around and dislodge the lid because I dont want sewer gas to fill the house, while I try to figure it out.
What I dont understand is how to get the 2" copper pipes off without cutting them off. In order to replace the lid I am going to fabricate a custom metal cover and secure it to the concrete floor with tapcons. Any advice on getting these pipes off are appreciated!!
Just more pictures.
Well the check valve part is easy you can remove the hose clamps on the lower rubber coupling and remove the rubber. The vent pipe usually only goes down in the pit a few inches so you should be able to tilt the lid downward and slip it out from under the vent pipe. If not you can always cut the vent pipe and reattach it with a new fernco made for copper pipes. Also I replace the couplings you have on the check valve to ones that fit the copper pipe on one end and plastic on the other.
Here is a link of the type of couplings you need. http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shiel...flex-couplings If you need help finding them feel free to click on the link in my signature and give me a call, my name is Ron.
Thanks for the reply. I think I got it, seems pretty straight forward. Just wondering, why replace the one end of the couplings as PVC??
Well the check valve is PVC and the rubber couplings that they are using are for the outside diamator of PVC, CI to PVC, CI. The ones I am recomending are Copper to PVC, CI.
So what I am saying is get the right type of couplings for both sides of the check valve. The pair you need are 3001-22 2” CI, PL. or ST. to 2” Copper , and the one for the vent is 3003-22 2” Copper to 2” Copper.
What you should also be doing is installing some kind of a alarm system that will tell you when the pump fails so the pit doesn't fill with sewage to the point that it floods everything when you remove the sealed top to fix or repair the problem...
Thanks. I'm definitely going to tackle this, this weekend. One more thing, I was looking online to get those Fernco couplings, and only a couple of places have them. Does anyone know any hardware stores in Chicago or online I can get them??
I'll look into that alarm, but one thing at a time.
A plumbing supply is your best bet. I do not know what part of Chicago you are in so I would not know who would be close to you. Best to look in the yellow pages under plumbing suppl. The part numbers I gave you are for the Fernco proflex couplings. You can also ask them if they carry Mission couplings here are the part numbers need by that brand. two of these for the check valve CK-22 - 2” CI, PL. or ST. to 2” Copper and one of these for the vent pipe K-200 - 2” Copper to 2” Copper
I think it's more important to consider how you are going to fix the leak. Sewer gas can be highly poisonous and any leakage might be putting your family at risk.
The basin should have studs and a rubber or cork gasket with nuts on top or recessed bolts going into the cover. Don't bother trying to fix this with tubes of caulk or anything, you will only be wasting your time. The best fix might be to pull the basin out and put in a new one. If you try to patch this up you will likely be starting over again in a couple of months or sooner.
Maybe you can fix it, but consider that a new basin with a matched lid, a new high liquid level alarm, and a good brand name pump will probably serve you for 10 years or more before you even have to look at it again.
Last edited by cacher_chick; 02-09-2009 at 08:25 PM.
I measured the copper pipes going into the pump and the outside diameter is 7". Does this mean that I need a 3-3.5" PVC pipe to replace the current pipe?
Catcher_chick, I pulled up the cover plate, and there is not a basin installed in there, the pump was just placed in the well by itself. Luckily, the pump only comes on when it has rained alot or when someone uses the bathroom downstairs. The main bathroom upstairs is connected directly to the soil stack, and doesnt go through the pump.
The size of opening is roughly 22-24" in diameter. I think I'm just going to suck it up and completely replace everything.
I havent really looked into it in depth, but I was thinking about going with a Zoeller or Little Giant pump. Any other recommendations??
SewerRatz, I might take you up on that call after all. Im on the south west side of Chicago, around the Oak Lawn-Ashburn area.
It sounds like you have a couple of problems. Foundation drains should not be hooked to the sanitary system. If the rainwater can get in, then the sewage can get out. If the systems are hooked together it can allow sewage to go into the foundation drains and then into the ground around your home.
You need to find out what the code is in your location. You will most likely need to install a sump basin for foundation drainage and a separate sewage basin for the sanitary system.
As far as pumps go, I was going to get a Zoeller pump, but none of the big chain stores around here have them, and online they charge just as much for shipping as the actual unit. I think Im going to go with this one by Liberty. http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp/P_ID/148966.
This pump is 20" wide, but the hole is about 22" wide. SO in order to make things work out, I need to backfill the pit with about an 1" of crushed rock on each side, and then fill with concrete to make it flush with the surface? Is that correct, anything else that needs to be done other than a new check valve, alarm,, etc...???
Chicago has combnation storm and sanitary sewers. So storm water and drain tiles already enter the sewer system.
Just proplery sealing your pit, you can call the local plumbing supply they will have Zoeller ejector pumps. I am not a big fan of the Liberty pumps, I use Zoeller or Hydromatic. The Hydromatic model is SKV 50 Zoeller model is 267
Now if he was in some newer area of Chicago, or out in the suburbs, where they have storm sewers separate from the sanitary sewers, he would be required to have a sump pump pit for the rain water and an ejector pit for the sewerage.