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Thread: News valves...

  1. #1

    Cool New valves...

    I bought a house built in 1931 and I am going to upgrade the galvanized to type L copper in the next couple of months. One plumbing matter I would like to correct now is a severely leaking sillcock. I will be replacing with a 12" frost-free sillcock as the house is in Northern Illinois. I was about to do this, but I have problems with the main house shut-off valves fore and aft of the water meter. The valve between the meter and the street only closes to about 85% and the valve after the meter does not turn at all. I don't dare wrench on it as it may break and with the other valve only closed @ 85% I suspect I would have to have a large bucket and sweat a new valve in quite quickly. So, my question is this: what are the best replacement valves? (globe, gate or ball) Is type of valve determined by code? Who makes the best valve needed in this application? Who makes the best plumbing wrenches? Thanks in advance for any insight…
    Last edited by boz724@sbcglobal.net; 08-14-2005 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Spelling error

  2. #2
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Default

    Rigid is an excellent wrench. For casual work around the house, you don't necessarliy need to spend that much money, but I would avoid the no-name Chinese imports, because the steel is very poor quality.

    You CANNOT solder a new valve with a single drop of water in it, much less 15% of flow. The city should be responsibe for the valve upstream of the meter. See if you can get them to do it.

    Otherwise, this is a situation where a freeze kit could be used while you install a new valve on your side. A ball valve is definitely the preferred choice. Get a full-port bronze valve with stainless steel ball. Avoid the import brass ball valves. They will only save you a few dollars, and the quality of the brass is iffy. Soldering a valve is not the easiest job to learn soldering on. Maybe you should get a plumber to do this.

  3. #3
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking get a comp fitting

    just pre -fab the fitting with the ball valve already soldered
    together .

    if it is /2 copper you are working with..
    go out and buy a 1/2 x1/2 brass compression fitting and
    put that fitting upstream of new valve you want to install...

    ctu the pipe out and put the bucket under the whole project
    then just install the comp fitting with
    the prefabricated ball valve ......

    solder the valve on a piece of copper and you can tighetn
    down the comp fitting on the other end of it
    so you got only one comp joint to tighetn down on the
    dripping pipe.


    leave the valve open while you are tightening the
    whole thing down, or the back pressure might start
    to fight you while wrenching down on the
    comp nuts.. and just let it pour into the bucket


    ps...you might get a little wet
    Last edited by master plumber mark; 06-26-2005 at 07:38 AM.

  4. #4

    Question New valves...

    Thanks for the insight up to this point guys. I am going to have my water shut off at the street to repair my problem. As far as ball valves go, I've done some research and Apollo seems to be the only choice for full port brass ball valve with stainless steel ball. Is this true? Best price I have found is $31 per valve. Now as far as fittings, do the experienced plumbers think I should use solder fittings or threaded. I know to direct the heat away from the valve internals and I can sweat fairly well. I am just looking for the best way to do this because I want the best job possible. I've always been taught to do it right the first time!!! Thanks again.

    Troy

  5. #5
    Plumber plumber1's Avatar
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    Default Valve

    I still like iron pipe gate valves at the water meter. Some cities may require gate valves. Then go to copper for the replumbing job. Besides gate valves and stop and waste valves are more repairable than ball valves.

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