Find a single post made by me where I stated that I could do that!
I never said that I could do that. The "boys" along with yourself keep telling me I can not run two showers at the same time. That was always obvious to me. I only have one full bathroom, and two 1/2 baths. Maybe you, the "boys" and the Hillbilly man take showers simultaneously outside the house, but we do not do that around here.
Read post 191 again.
Yup, my parents have a mid 60's vintage 5 bedroom colonial with 2 full baths and 2 1/2 baths. The hot water has a 1/2" line that is fed from the tankless coil in the FHW heating boiler. We had two adults and 7 children of various ages, and there was never a hot water shortage even with that tankless setup.
Then again, we did not take two showers at the same time either. One after the other in two different rooms. By the time someone finished in one shower, there was the time lag of drying off, drying the hair, getting dressed and whatever. That's when the second shower was used. I am not sure if a typical sized single tank type heater could keep up with a lot of back to back showers either.
Also do that many people run washing machines with the full hot wash and rinse cycle at any time during the day, let alone while someone is in the shower? Sounds like good grounds for a divorce to me!
So you see no difference between a normal sized home and a McMansion?
Tepid water where? Out of the tankless, or out of the shower head? Gas unit or electric? Public water with adequate water pressure, or well water? Current low flow shower heads, or high flow units? Pressure balanced shower valve or temperature controlled? Was this a McMansion?
I assume that you did more than just install a tankless unit without evaluating the full "system".
I think that you meant to say that the clothing in the wash never complained that the rinse was only "tepid"?
Two showers is the limit that I have seen on the larger units with winter water temperatures coming in. Note that I would probably still have a tank type water heater if I did not need the floor space for other use. Still, I think the gas tankless is a better performer than the old tank heater was.
Like Clint Eastwood said " A man's got to know his water heaters limitations. Did I use 2 gallons of hot water per minute, or 4 gallons per minute"!
The inaccurate statements just ooze out of his mouth like when a bull lifts it's tail and every reply calling him on it just gets ignored as another piece of fertilizer takes it's place for us to reply to...
Laddy Boy is a legend in his own mind when it comes to tankless knowledge..
And your reply to this?
You really reached deep up beyond your spincter muscle to pull out this batch of brilliance...
Flushing is required on tankless as well as tank type water heaters...
The odors you mention are caused by sulfur reducing bacteria. The locations these bacteria can set up shop is not limited to tank type water heaters. Wells and even faucets may have a odorous bacteria colony set up a home.
Water that has been heated has had its mineral content precipitated out of it and like RO water is hungry in terms of aggressiveness. It will even leach lead out of pre lead free solder joints... Your tankless is included in this aggresiveness. BTW RO water is a highly desired drinking water...
White plastic particles?? Put down the crack pipe Laddy! Snap out of it! For several years in the 90's water heaters by many manufacturers were made with a defective dip tub installed in them. All persons who had water heaters with this problem were notified as required by law of a class action lawsuit and last date for filing claims for relief under the settlement agreement was December 31, 2000.
And you reply to this?
I propose that we bestow the title of "Google Boy" upon you.
This is a title that we give to those with a total lack of subject knowledge that manage to post "copy & paste" a long post that looks very knowledgable on the surface until a knowledgable person attempts to read the assembled drivel.
Simply put Legionella Bacteria is present in water. Usually in small quantities that have a miniscule chance of causing a problem. When water is stored at a temperature in the ideal growth range the small amount present can multiply.
The use of a tankless water heater will not do anything to the bacteria to kill it and infact if there is a recirculation system may keep it in the ideal growth range just like a tank type water heater.
The solution is simple for a tank type water heater and that is to raise the temperature in the tank to 140 degrees where the Legionella Bacteria will be killed then youe a tempering valve on the outlet to lower the temperature to 120 degrees for safe use.
There it is a few simple paragraphs that said more than all the drivel you posted...
Could it be that I know my subject matter and am qualified to post about it?
Now for restaurants that go tankless do a hybrid set up there. We have two units one direct feeding the bathrooms each with a .5 gpm aerator. The second tank is tied into a 180 Gallon storage tank with recirculating pump and a thermostat on the tank maintaining the water to the required 160 degree water if they use a chemical sanitizer, or to 180 degrees if they just use a hot water rinse on their dishwasher. Granted the second set up is a tankless boiler running at 400,000 BTU but can handle the large demand of the restaurant.
Laddy Boy's Credibility?
Answer the Questions!
Last edited by Redwood; 02-12-2009 at 07:19 AM.
As a follow up to that question, I measured everything with that scenario.
1. Typical water temperature that I prefer was measured at 105 degrees. No surprise there.
2. Incoming water temperature is around 42 degrees (winter low).
3. Incoming water pressure with nothing turned on is 71 psi.
4. Tankless heater is an older Aguastar gas tankless with 125,000 BTU maximum.
5. Thermostat set to 120 degrees nominal.
6. 2.5 gpm flow shower head, standard old style three knob valve system.
7. 1.0 gpm maximum flow from kitchen fixture.
8. Normal shower setting (105 degrees) would be about 1/3 cold mixed with 2/3 hot with winter incoming water temperature (42 degrees).
9. Fixed 3.5 gpm flow restrictor was not removed from tankless heater.
I did perform a hot water capacity test in the manner that you described.
1. Hot water in the shower set to full ON with no cold mixed in.
2. Hot water in the kitchen sink set to full ON with no cold water mixed in.
3. Ran water to cool down the tankless unit unit until a stable temperature was observed.
4. Temperature of the hot water in shower and at the kitchen sink went down to 98 degrees and stayed there.