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Thread: Another Toilet Flange help request

  1. #1
    Mechanical Engineer Bob R's Avatar
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    Default Another Toilet Flange help request

    First of all, many thanks for this site and the help provided by the experts here.

    I've started the process and decided I'm at the point where I can cause a lot more work for myself - or ask for some help.

    My flange is flush with the bottom of the ceramic floor tiles and rotted out. The back is 1/8" below finished floor and the front another 1/8" lower than that. After viewing similar situations here, my plan was to use a SS segmented repair kit (PlumPak 247812). However the whole flange needs replacing.

    Can I screw a new brass flange (Plumpak PP23521) on top of the existing flange and use a thick wax seal?

    Or

    Do I start the digging process to glue in a new drain & flange? Hopefully from the top.


    thanks,

    Bob




    Finished ceiling below. I'd rather not start cutting it down.
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  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I think you'd be asking for trouble if you don't replace the flange. Mixing new parts with the old, rusty flange would not be wise in my opinion. Of course it is tempting because of the work involved, but any kind of patch job would be suspect. I would suggest you consider a professional plumber to do this. It may very well be possible he will have the know how to do the job with a minimal amount of damage to the ceiling below and get the new flange up to the proper height and level. I realize this would not be inexpensive, but this is a job that once done right will last virtually forever and look good as well. I am an avid DIYer, but I have come to realize that there comes a point for all of us where we have reached the limits of our abilities and calling for professional help is called for.

  3. #3
    Mechanical Engineer Bob R's Avatar
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    Thanks, Gary.

    In my heart I know that you are right. But, the plumber is going to want to cut from below and then it really becomes a carpenters job. That's me.

    I thought about using a dremel to completely remove the corroded flange from the PVC drain and then adding the new brass flange. The problem is that now the drain "floats" within the flange and is only supported by whatever straps are holding it up against the floor framing.

    So, before I start cutting into the ceiling below, I might try to drill right through the old flange into solid wood. Use a thin wax seal between the flanges (or gobs of RTV) and then a thick wax seal to set the bowl.

    If I fail, there will be a new suspended ceiling in my laundry room.

    roll the dice?

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member TedL's Avatar
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    Is there anything supporting the flange? I appears to be let into the plywood that surrounds it. Is there another subfloor layer supporting it?

  5. #5
    Mechanical Engineer Bob R's Avatar
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    There is another layer supporting the flange. Whoever installed it used a hole saw to lay the flange in the hole.

    Probing with an awl reveals soild wood.

  6. #6
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    I know they sell pvc and cast iron flanges that fit inside that old pipe. They have rubber on the bottom that makes the seal. You twist and turn it until it's super tight. Then you could secure it to the old subfloor. I used it once before and it worked great. I told the professional plumber that I work with sometimes to use it once, so I didn't have to patch the ceiling from underneath and save some work and he said" I don't use that garbage"

    I wonder how other's feel about it. I think it's called twist and set. It comes in both cast iron and pvc.
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

  7. #7
    Plumber krow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
    I wonder how other's feel about it. I think it's called twist and set. It comes in both cast iron and pvc.
    Most plumbers are not really big fans of this type of repair. I would never consider this a permanent fix.

    The material used on the above flange is ABS with a metal swival ring. A good plumber should be able to detach the ABS hub from the pipe in peices, without having to cut a hole in the ceiling below. Most plumbers learn to do this procedure by "trial and error". It starts by removing the metal ring around the ABS

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