need help with powder room rough-in

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twashington

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I bought a new home about a year ago. The lower level of the home in unfinished space, but there are plumbing rough-ins for a toilet and a sink. I'm pretty sure there are aspects of this project that are not a DIY project, but I'd figure I'd ask anyway. Anyway, if you look at the photos you'd notice that the water supply and drain for the washer is close by. I was wondering if that can be tied into to supply the hot and cold water for the bathroom sink? Also, I plan on putting a door on the powder room. My one issue is this...if one walks into the door the sink is supposed to be on their right and the toilet directly in front of them. Given the location of the pipes, drains, water lines, etc, how can I fit a sink in this location? What would be the best way to set this up so one can have the sink in the same room as the toilet? Thank you.
 

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Basement_Lurker

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Yes, someone who knows what they are doing can easily tap into the nearby washer rough-in to run supply lines to your lavatory sink rough-in.

Your plumbing drain rough-ins are already set and your half-bath is ready for completion of the rough framing. So unfortunately you are stuck with the layout as is, and so the positioning of the sink is already decided and committed to.

While things are open and you are finishing things off, I suggest you replace that toilet supply pex stubout with a proper copper stubout elbow.

As far as commenting on the actual layout of your room, and where/how to add a door/wall, your pictures don't show enough of the room and you don't give enough information.
 

C NUMB

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Looks more like the Idea was to have a laundry sink and a toilet in a separate room. There is not enough room for a toilet and sink in that space. But, if if was in my place there here is an idea. Without breaking the floor open.

Offset both the 3" and 2" lines with a 90 degree bend above the floor ( you may have to chip around both to get the hubs a little below floor level)towards the right about 24". Build a 6" raised floor to cover the offsets. This will allow you to install a cabinet above with the sink. I will try and draw something so you know what I mean.

picture.php


Sorry for the rough drawing but its early, should give you an idea on a layout. Yes, you will be able to get the hot and cold feed from the w/m to the lav.

I would recommend getting a plumber to do the install.
 

twashington

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offset rough-ins

C NUMB,

Thanks all for your reply. I think I have an idea of what you're talking about. I tried to draw a few things on the pics I took to illustrate what I think you're trying to communicate to me. Let me know which one makes more sense. It seems like in order to do this properly the plumber would have to cut into those pipes and add these offsets. Is there any problems with doing this? How much labor is involved in this? I'm guessing it is best to have my wall layed out before a plumber comes in, correct?

I know the way the rough-ins are layed out at the moment it seems as if the sink is supposed to be outide of the where the toilet is, but I don't want that. If I did that I might as well put in a utility sink for the laundry room area and just make a closet out of the the area where the toilet is. That would probably be a cheaper option. :) I'm trying to finish this area the best way I know how to add value to the home. Thank for your help.
 

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C NUMB

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Here I attempted another drawing now that Philly lost.

picture.php



Recess back only the cabinet depth so the cabinet looks built in. I believe most bathroom cabinets are 21 deep. No need for a kick plate as the 6" step up will act as that. Hope this helps.
 

Gardner

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I'm not sure how far it is from the left wall to the vents. It looks like it might be just over three feet. It would be possible, I think, to place a small wall-hung sink on a wall built where the two vents are. When I was re-doing a teensie power room in my house recently I found a Toto wall hung sink that sticks out barely 10 inches from the wall.
 

hj

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drains

From the pictures, it appears you have to most idiotic plumbing roughin I have ever seen. Neither of the pipe reroutes are ideal, although the top one is the only one that would be acceptable. One fly in your ointment, however, is that you will NEVER offset that 3" line under the cabinet unless you first break the concrete and cut it off below the floor level.
 
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