Thanks for the link, problem is they also talk about doing it from inside out, taking one side of the wall apart. I wouldn't mind doing that, IF the siding pulls off ok, but something tells me that isn't going to be the case with 100yr wood and nails. Working one or two rows all around the house is one thing, working every board is another.
Yes, I would suppose the two companies would say that, but then again, sometimes people are actually honest and would say, no this is not what you would want.
I also checked with the Dept of Energy's website and it look like they seem to say in my area a vapor barrior isn't a necessity. I plan on trying to call my local inspection office and/or the states DOE and see what I come up with.
Another thought, I just had was there is an upstairs bathroom, which has been remoded since probably the 80's. I believe it has fiberglass batting behind drywall. Being as I plan on remodeling this bathroom in the near future, maybe I'll cut a hole in the wall and see what is going on. If it is dry with no real signs of water that has sat, maybe I'll be ok. It's probably the best answer to my question.
My lingering question here is how much different does air flow around fiberglass batting vs. blown in cellulose? I would think the cellulose would be a tighter "pack" thereby not drying as much; however, I tend to read that cellulose is better at absorbing and distributing the moisture. Hmmm..
Another thing I am wondering about is a two-fold approach, much like is discussed on the other board. What if, I was to remove the bottom 1' of siding, intall some foam panels about 1' high in such a manner as to create a stop, so that the cellulose wouldn't be allowed to settle at the bottom of the wall. My thought is I woul get good fill for 99% of wall, but if any moisture did accumulate, it could settle, via gravity, towards the bottom of the wall and then mitigate out the wall. I have attached a crude drawing.... Only problem is, this might put too much water on the bottom plate....