Basement bathroom renovation???

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Oldyota

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First off want to say hello to everyone on the board, been searching and reading alot of posts educating myself....

I'm currently in the process of renovating my basement bathroom , it had a shower stall, toilet, and sink already installed but very bad placement... So I've removed everything except the toilet, since I only have one other bathroom and 3 wonderful ladies in the house... I'm wanting to move the toilet to where the shower stall was (approximately 3') away from current location. I have busted up the concrete and have dug out where the shower was, I know that I have to replace the 2" drain pipe with a 3" one... Here in lies my problem, the previous installer cut into the 3" cast iron pipe and didn't add "tee" or a "wye" the pipe was cut and a 2" line was added and it looks like some type of caulk, plumber's putty was used to seal it up. My question is can I install a 3" tap saddle or do I need to cut that section out and install PVC????

Thanks in advance and I'm sure there will be lots of more questions on this project...
 

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Jadnashua

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Crack that cast iron and install the proper fittings. You can connect it to the cast with no-hub connectors.
 

Oldyota

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How would you recommend to cut it?? The main drain was put in 1966, I was also wondering how you get the new fittings to seal up on all the corrosion.. Been looking at the hub couplings is that what you talking about?? Rubber gaskets with the stainless clamps??
 

Redwood

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Yes, No Hubs are what we are talking about.

NoHub.jpg


I have a question on where that pvc comes from...
Does it elbow up out of the floor? Or, is that the shower trap outlet?
Where is the vent?
 

Jadnashua

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You can use a sawsall with a special metal cutting blade(s -as you'll need more than one), but a soil pipe cutter (snap cutter) will snap it in about 30-seconds (you'd probably spend more on blades than the rental!). Basically looks like a bicycle chain on steroids with round, hardened cutting disks within the links. Eat your Wheaties, the thing is heavy! Wrap it around the pipe, link the chain to the other end of the tool, then using the ratchet, tighten until it snaps the pipe. Rent one, as they're quite expensive for a one-time use.

Use a wire brush, maybe one on a drill to see how clean you can get things.

snap_cutter.jpg
 
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hj

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drain

Cutting the pipe and installing a new connection is the easy part of your problem. You MUST vent the toilet properly, and you cannot make an "S" trap like they did with the shower. You are going to have to break a LOT more concrete before you can install the pipes the right way.
 

Oldyota

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I understand the no hub route....... This pic shows the stack layout, I've tried to label them in paint I hope it helps.... Redwood the pvc from the cast iron goes to the shower trap. Can I use the existing vent? As you see in the pics there is a vent for the washer, toilet, and lav the pipe labeled sink is the kitchen and has it's own vent above the kitchen ... The new shower is going to be vented into the other stack approximately 12' away in another room of the basement.

As far as cutting the cast iron, there is a old sump pump basin, you can see it in the pic by the cast iron pipe, it's the reason there is a perfect half circle where my hole is.... So I guess I need to make enough room to work in there, right??? Should I replace any of the other piping while I have it exposed, mainly the 2" tee?

Thanks again for help on this...
 

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