2yr old well pumping cloudy water from day 1

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Gary Slusser

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Sammy, I know you don't and that rock bores can't be done straight...

Of all the pumps I pulled I had one that had a hole worn in the wet end and one the motor; that looked like it had been there for some time. Most of the rest had no marks on them. All were on PE pipe and were as deep as just over 500' but most were in the 150' to 400' range. I never saw wear on pipe, but maybe 5 out of 10 had damaged cable. Most had cable guards but no tape between them or it had come loose and that's where the wire was worn bare. Some of those had multiple worn through spots. Many of the pumps were 15-20+ years old with a few to 30 yrs old.

Maybe 1 out of 15 had an arrestor. Rope was rare but always a serious PIA.
 

Gary Slusser

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So Gary, now that you know water wells can't be drilled straight and why the torque arrestor was invented, do you think it's a wise idea to use one?

sammy
Sammy.... a.. it sounds as if you don't know that some water wells are "drilled" straight. And if you don't know why torque arrestors shouldn't be used, keep using them and sooner or later you'll learn.
 

Sammyhydro11

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Oh okay...i just figured..well maybe you can explain since you know so much about the issues associated with them. Okay, so all wells are drilled straight and pumps don't have torque. Damn i'm learning so much. All those pumps that i replaced where one side of the motor looked like someone scrubbed it with a rock must have been an illusion. Thinking back now...i wonder just what the heck caused that. I still can't understand why they use those stupid centralizers. Torque arrestors, wire guides, centralizers....what a scam!

sammy

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Speedbump

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I must be naive, cause I've never used either. I don't even know what a wire guide is. There is a wire guard that goes on the pump end. It comes with every submersible pump. In my opinion, it's the only guard of any kind needed in a well.

Everything you add to a string of pipe that is not absolutely necessary is just another thing to cause problems. I have always taped my splice to the pipe above the pump then about 1' below every joint at either 21' (for many years with galvanized pipe) and now that we are using SCH 80, my son does the same thing every 20 feet.

I see no reason for any other kind of guide to protect the wire, pump or motor. I've been doing this since I was 13 (50 years, but you didn't hear that from me) and never had a scuffed wire that was installed by us. Ok, maybe one or two that homeowners installed, but that's to be expected.

bob...
 

Gary Slusser

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Bob, in rock bores, usually over say 100' deep, with PE drop pipe, the cable, taped as you mention, will rub the side of the casing and hole, sometimes in many places. Here's what cable guards (and arrestors) look like. The guards do a great job; when they are placed close enough together, and 40' is way too far apart. I always used flat cable. I see Sammy can't figer out how to use them instead of an arrestor...
http://www.campbellmfg.com/catalog/r01.htm
 

Sammyhydro11

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I still can't figure out why you can't explain the problems to expect using a torque arrestor. You originally said on this thread that a torque arrestor shouldn't be used because it rubs against the wall of the well....I guess that's the reason. I would rather have a sacrificial fitting rub than a pump motor.

sammy

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99k

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Well one thing is for sure, it seems like every pump installer has their own method of installation ... perhaps a geographical thing. I have never installed a pump, but it would appear that the cable guard by design will centralize the PVC / PE piping to the casing and therefore would also centralize the pump if close enough to it.
 

Sammyhydro11

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And what problems are those Gary? Maybe 99k wants to know too. I think you really don't know Gary. I think you probably did a search to find out too but couldn't find anything and your waiting for someone to come to your rescue. HA!

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com
 
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