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Thread: Water Heater Cold Water Inlet "Overflow"

  1. #31

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by jar546 View Post
    Also,
    The first photos show a WH in a finished space. The bottom photo shows the WH on concrete with masonry walls behind it. Did I miss something?
    The WH is in my garage. The garage walls are finished.

    Thank you.
    -Rod

  2. #32

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Rod View Post
    Thank you for your input.

    I have a book on-hand- Taunton's For Pros By Pros seires, "Inspecting A House", by Rex Cauldwell. It states on pg 158-



    I looked at the discharge tube pipe. It reads, "CPVC 4120", "100 PSI at 180F".

    There is no pan. I don't know yet if NC code requires one.

    Thank you.
    -Rod
    This is also on the CPVC discharge tube:

    FlowGuard Gold

    D2846
    Last edited by Rod; 12-28-2008 at 09:08 AM.

  3. #33

    Default

    Great information but we need to know the size of the discharge tube. Just make sure it is at lease 3/4".

    You have 2 hot water heaters in the photos, one of them is in the garage?
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  4. #34

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by jar546 View Post
    Great information but we need to know the size of the discharge tube. Just make sure it is at lease 3/4".

    You have 2 hot water heaters in the photos, one of them is in the garage?
    All of the photos are of the same WH- in the garage. It is the only WH I have.

    What's an accurate method to measure it? I thought it would be plainly written on the CPVC pipe.

    Also, are you able to answer these?

    - The water heater is in my garage. Could I have "overwraped" an already insulated water heater? Could this be the cause of my problem? Or, is there no such thing as over insulating a water heater?

    - Can I simply forego the expansion tank and have a plumber install a normal valve?

    Thank you.
    -Rod

  5. #35

    Arrow

    I want to thank everyone for their advice. I spoke in-debth with MACPLUMB 777 about the need for attaching a thermal expansion tank.

    Again, thank you kindly for your time and advice.
    -Rod

  6. #36
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Default

    Sounds like you have it all worked out....but just in case: The T/P is a safety to prevent a catastrophic event if the Pressure exceeds the design max limit of the WH ( 150 PSI). But we do not want the house piping to regularly see pressures less than 150, but far exceeding the normal max limit of 80 PSI. That situation is caused by thermal expansion, and is accomodated by a thermal expansion tank, or your thermal relief valve.

  7. #37
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    Aug 2008
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    Flagstaff, AZ Sitting on an upside down 5 gallon bucket next to the GO 68HD
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    Default

    I think "jar" still needs closure as to why the posted photos seem to negate each other.

  8. #38
    DIY Senior Member Probedude's Avatar
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    CA
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    Default

    edit; nevermind.

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