Our raw well water has a hydrogen sulfide taste and odor problem. A point-of-use charcoal filter at the kitchen tap has solved the problem there. Our neighbor has solved the same problem with two whole house charcoal filters and we want to do the same.
This weekend I'm planning to install three whole house filter cartridge housings in series, one for sediment and two for charcoal, in the well water supply line between the pressure tank and water softener. If experience shows that the second charcoal filter is not necessary, I'll just leave that housing empty. Any advice or comments? Would it be wise to install a filter bypass?
In the future we want to shift the supply for the outside faucets from softened water (existing) to untreated water. As part of the filter installation project I'm thinking of tapping into the supply line and adding a capped stub for future connection to the outside faucets. It seems simple enough but I'm wondering if there are any special considerations for stubs (locations, lengths, etc.) to prevent problems from trapped air or unmixed water?
I had a mental image flash by.
Sammy, since Andy won't list what tests are included in "a complete water analysis", and you always use a Certified Lab for "a complete water analysis", make your self useful and help BS by listing what tests he should have a lab do for him.
As I get ready to do this (see post #1), I have a couple more questions:
1. It doesn't appear that I can isolate the pipe between the pressure tank and the softener before I cut into it. I can close a ball valve at the pressure tank, but there are no downstream valves in the pipes before they branch off throughout the house.
The only thing I'm not sure of is the softener itself (Kenmore UltraSoft 400, model #625.388400). It has a built-in bypass valve but with only two positions: bypass or service. The owner's manual makes no reference to shut-off or check valves. So it seems that when I cut into the line all the pipes in the house will drain out on me. I can certainly be prepared with a bucket or two or three, but I wonder if I'm overlooking something?
2. When I install the filter housings, I'll also add an isolation valve between the filters and the softener. Is there a need for a check valve or backflow prevention device?
After shutting off the water and putting the softener's bypass valve in the bypass position, you open a faucet in the house and the water will drain out where you cut the pipe where you want to start plumbing. There won't be more than a few gallons, then close that faucet.
Rather than installing shut off valves in the plumbing, you should have bought valve in head type filter housings. They allow turning off the water in and out of them and relieve the water pressure in the sump at the same time.
Ball valves are the right type, not gate valves. I hope these filters work for you, I wouldn't do it this way, I'd use a correctly sized backwashed Centaur carbon filter if I used carbon.
No check valves.