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Thread: Is any flange/toilet contact ok?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member batkins61's Avatar
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    Default Is any flange/toilet contact ok?

    I have a flange that extends above the floor and isn't exactly parallel with the floor, due to both the floor and flange being slightly off level (in the opposite direction, naturally :P). A new tile floor was built around the existing flange and was expected to come up high enough to have the flange be at the right height. However, the flange ended up being slightly too high (about 1/16" - 1/8", at most).

    The Toto I have will contact the flange at the rear. If I leave the front of the toilet edge on the floor, I can shim the rear enough to get the base off the flange. But, due to the angle, I end up with about a 1/4" gap between the floor and the rear edge of the toilet. I can place shims in several places and at various thicknesses to provide support. I have test fitted it and I can get it on the shims with no rocking, and it feels solid. Obviously, the toilet will not be resting on it's edge all the way around, but instead on shims in several places. Is that acceptable, or does that spell certain disaster down the road?

    Lowering the flange would be a bear. The flange is either directly attached to the wye that enters the 4" stack (running horizontally under the floor at this point), or to a very short vertical pipe. Lowering the flange may not be as "simple" as cutting out a section of pipe and re-leading. It may require replacing the entire wye section of the 4" stack (which, at least, is in the crawlspace).

    Given the huge difference in the two solutions in terms of time and cost, I'd obviously rather take the shim approach. Assuming the risk of damage to the toilet or loss of seal is small, I'd like to try the shims. Except for the potential cost of a new toilet, the cost of replacing the flange later isn't any more than doing it now. But, if the chances that this will break the toilet are pretty high, then I'll have to look into getting it done sooner rather than later.

    Any experiences or recommendations would be most welcome.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    If you go the shim route which sounds like is worth a try (with you monitoring every now and again) then use plastic door shims. Clear silicone around the base will help keep them in place as well as add stability to the toilet.

  3. #3
    I teach guitar:You call that a job? Howard Emerson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by batkins61 View Post
    I have a flange that extends above the floor and isn't exactly parallel with the floor, due to both the floor and flange being slightly off level (in the opposite direction, naturally :P). A new tile floor was built around the existing flange and was expected to come up high enough to have the flange be at the right height. However, the flange ended up being slightly too high (about 1/16" - 1/8", at most).

    The Toto I have will contact the flange at the rear. If I leave the front of the toilet edge on the floor, I can shim the rear enough to get the base off the flange. But, due to the angle, I end up with about a 1/4" gap between the floor and the rear edge of the toilet. I can place shims in several places and at various thicknesses to provide support. I have test fitted it and I can get it on the shims with no rocking, and it feels solid. Obviously, the toilet will not be resting on it's edge all the way around, but instead on shims in several places. Is that acceptable, or does that spell certain disaster down the road?

    Lowering the flange would be a bear. The flange is either directly attached to the wye that enters the 4" stack (running horizontally under the floor at this point), or to a very short vertical pipe. Lowering the flange may not be as "simple" as cutting out a section of pipe and re-leading. It may require replacing the entire wye section of the 4" stack (which, at least, is in the crawlspace).

    Given the huge difference in the two solutions in terms of time and cost, I'd obviously rather take the shim approach. Assuming the risk of damage to the toilet or loss of seal is small, I'd like to try the shims. Except for the potential cost of a new toilet, the cost of replacing the flange later isn't any more than doing it now. But, if the chances that this will break the toilet are pretty high, then I'll have to look into getting it done sooner rather than later.

    Any experiences or recommendations would be most welcome.
    Thanks!
    Bat,
    If the flange is indeed on a lead bend, I'm almost certain that you can just screw the flange down tighter, while at the same time using a hammer to internally bulge the lead bend a little bit outwards...........Does that make sense?

    If you screw the flange down tight to the floor, it's going to want to force the lead bend to kink somehow, even though you don't have very far to go. My logic is to bulge the pipe outwards to take up the slack, if you can reach the area that would best facilitate this procedure.

    It may just be a matter of going in a couple of inches to do the bulge, actually.

    HE
    Last edited by Howard Emerson; 12-23-2008 at 07:26 AM. Reason: Clarity

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