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Thread: Anyone ever seen a warped Americast tub?

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    DIY Member chrisexv6's Avatar
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    Default Anyone ever seen a warped Americast tub?

    After finally getting drywall up and taped, I took a gander at stacking some tiles in the tub area just to see how it would look.

    Horrible!!! Why? because the tub deck is warped. My walls are perfectly plumb....I put a 4' level on the tub deck and there is a 1/8" gap under the center of the level. So the tiles that were resting on the tub deck were actually NOT level. I levelled the first tile, then continued a level line horizontally across the wall.

    At the lowest point, the tub deck is 1/4" off!!

    Has anyone ever seen something like that?

    I cant believe I apparently had to bring a level with me to HD/Lowes to pick out "just the right tub". And now that its installed, my only choice is to make it work (waaaaaay too much work at this point to remove all the drywall to pull the tub out and demand a new one)

    -Chris

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If that tub is also to be used as a shower, you should tear out the drywall and install cbu...drywall is intended for DRY locations, and neither tile nor grout will keep it dry...a disaster waiting to happen (even if it is greenboard, which BTW, is no longer in the national codes, although some locales have not adopted it yet).

    The tile should not be installed directly on the tub deck...there should be a gap there you caulk (unless you use something like Dilex from www.schluter.com). you should caulk the corners also, but Schluter has a tile-in expansion joint for corners, too if you want to avoid caulk everywhere.

    As to the warp, is the tub lip ledger board straight, level, and installed at the proper height? Did you ensure the floor was perfectly level or support the tub in a mortar bed?
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Member chrisexv6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    If that tub is also to be used as a shower, you should tear out the drywall and install cbu...drywall is intended for DRY locations, and neither tile nor grout will keep it dry...a disaster waiting to happen (even if it is greenboard, which BTW, is no longer in the national codes, although some locales have not adopted it yet).

    The tile should not be installed directly on the tub deck...there should be a gap there you caulk (unless you use something like Dilex from www.schluter.com). you should caulk the corners also, but Schluter has a tile-in expansion joint for corners, too if you want to avoid caulk everywhere.

    As to the warp, is the tub lip ledger board straight, level, and installed at the proper height? Did you ensure the floor was perfectly level or support the tub in a mortar bed?
    I intend on using Kerdi over the drywall, otherwise I would have installed CBU

    I realize there should be a gap between the tub deck and bottom tile. I was just resting the tiles there to help hold them.........and it doesnt matter gap or no gap, the gap will be inconsistent whatever gap is there.

    Ledger board is straight (I ran it thru my jointer just to make sure), installed at correct height, and is perfectly level. Tub is supported by a mortar bed (but SHHHH dont tell American Standard).

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If you make your first row of tile slightly less than full, you can taper them so you have a consistent gap to the tub. More work, but it would give you what would look like a straight line. Just make sure to keep the grout lines nice and straight on the top and subsequent rows. I'd want to use something like Kerdifix on the tub/kerdi joint.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Member chrisexv6's Avatar
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    Yeah thats what I was thinking of doing. Mark a level line where the 1st row *should* be level (at the lowest point of the dip), then tile upward from there. Once the rest of the wall is done, come back and scribe/contour the 1st row of tile to fit close to the tub.

    For the joint between tub and Kerdi I was planning on using OSI Quad caulk, but I suppose I can spring for a tube of KerdiFix.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    I have to ask.....did you install the tub ledge on a straight and plumb 2x4 ledger on the back wall??

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    DIY Member chrisexv6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    I have to ask.....did you install the tub ledge on a straight and plumb 2x4 ledger on the back wall??
    Yes...jad asked that earlier. And honestly I wouldnt see how the ledger would cause a 1/4" dip in the center of the tub........if it were, I figured there would be some more outward signs that the tub was bent towards center. Like the screw flange being buckled, porcelain coating chipping/flaking, etc.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Did you ensure the floor was perfectly level or support the tub in a mortar bed?
    Instructions for Americast specifically PROHIBIT any mortar under the tub.

  9. #9
    DIY Member chrisexv6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    Instructions for Americast specifically PROHIBIT any mortar under the tub.
    Yes they do as does the sticker right on the tub. But it seems its done by plenty of installers and there arent necessarily any problems.

    And if AS just warranties the tub, thats the least of my worries. The time and cost of removing (or having removed) all of the drywall to get the tub back out will end up to be worth more than the tub itself. So, it stays in place and I have to tile around it.

  10. #10
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default tub

    Why do you think few tubs are replaced under warranty? For the very reason you have stated.

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