(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: bottle trap

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member gardner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    217

    Default bottle trap

    So my new sink is installed and plumbed and seems to be okay. The new sink's tailpiece is quite close to the wall and consequently there is very little -- actually not really enough -- room for the trap. For now I have the trap running outward and looped back so it can be used, but it looks weird.

    I have two possibilities to get the installation fixed up -- I can move the trap adapter over to the side, or I can use a bottle trap.

    I'm not sure how guys who deal with them feel about bottle traps. The ones I can find seem to be pretty pricey. I want to spend not more that $50 on a reasonably decent one -- not a designer one, just something durable.

    Any opinions whether bottle traps ought to be avoided for any reason?

    Any suggestions of a cheap serviceable model to look at?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,374

    Default

    I'd just leave what you have there...a bottle trap isn't self-cleaning, if I understand how they work. A standard p-trap essentially is as long as the flow is decent.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    9,001

    Default

    Depending on how it is constructed, bottle traps are generally not code approved. 1004.0 of the CA plumbing code says "...bottle traps shall be installed ONLY for special conditions" . It would be up to your inspector as to whether you qualify as a "special condition?"

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Bottle traps are not allowed by many codes.
    They rely on an internal partition to provide the trap seal.
    There is no method of inspection that will reveal whether or not this partition has corroded away and is allowing dangerous sewer gases to enter your home.

    The method you describe of going past and swiveling the trap around to fit is acceptable. You could move the drain in the wall over or you may even add an elbow to it to allow a better fit.

  5. #5
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,191
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Maybe this is a dumb question, but how much of the trap arm toward the wall was cut off, and you still didn't have enough room to connect it?

    Your sink drain must be right up against the wall if you can't cut the trap enough to install it.
    Last edited by Terry; 07-11-2010 at 12:36 AM.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member gardner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Hi Terry,

    The tailpiece comes out about 5 inches from the wall on my Crane sink. The sleeker Toto wall mount that I had my eye on has the drain barely over 3 inches from the wall.

    My new trap adapter (remember the 1-1/4 banded coupling thread?) comes proud of the wall by over 3/4. The initial bend in the trap arm needs about 2 inches, the trap itself is over 3. There is just not enough space for the trap between the tailpiece and the trap adapter.

    I didn't cut the trap arm at all, thankfully, as the trap itself doesn't even fit. The trap arm is just long enough to reach the trap after swiveling it the other way around.

    I just rummaged out the Ontario code and they won't allow bottle traps here. It seems like I couldn't get one if I wanted it. Maybe there is room for someone to invent a bottle-like trap (a very narrow U-bend, with a removable shroud, say) that would meet the code requirements but fit the compact installs.

    The backward loop looks dumb, but will have to do until I get my bum in gear to swap out the sink and re-arrange everything. I needed to get this bathroom in service so I will leave that until I come up with something else.
    Last edited by Terry; 11-27-2008 at 10:40 AM.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member gardner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    217

    Default

    This is the Toto Sink I had in mind:

    http://www.totousa.com/admin/upload/...t650g-1107.pdf

    and I can't see how you could connect it to the rough-ins they show without using a bottle trap.

    To put this in my place, I will have to mount the sink over from the drain to allow the trap to run parallel to the wall and move one of the supplies over so the supply stub doesn't interfere with the drain.

    It looks pretty though, and fits in the compact space I have to work with.

    (Terry) If you rough a little to one side, then the trap won't have to be directly behind, and you can lose some space that way.
    (Gardner) That's kind of what I meant. Move sink relative to drain rough-in, move drain relative to sink -- it's all relative. But the supply on one side has to move or else the stub will interfere with the tailpiece. As shown in their drawing -- the Toto installation specification -- I can't see how it would work.
    Last edited by gardner; 11-27-2008 at 11:20 AM.

  8. #8
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,374

    Default

    In a week or so, you won't notice it, and neither will your guests...sometimes you've got to do what you've got to do. It will work fine.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •