Do I really need a pressure tank?

Hello every one and thanks in advance for your advice. You have a great forum here and I have gone from knowing nothing about well systems to being dangerously informed.

But I know enought to ask the experts.

I bought 5 acres with a water well that WAS used to support all the water needs of the property and the residents. It has great pressure, supports a lot of faucets all over the propery. But, now I have city water and the well is only used to water the grass, fill the tank, etc.

The 120 gallon Flotec FP7125 water pressure tank is probably no good, There are rust spots, water escapes from the air valve when pressed (Broken Bladder?), and the pump cycles frequently (waterlogged tank?). I cant tell you much about the downhole pump, except that it is working, and I turned it off as soon as I knew this was happening.

So before I shell out $300 for a new tank, and spend all day installing it... WHY? Is a tank necessary or desirable under the new operating requirements? Can't I just turn the pump on when I need it and turn it off when I am through. That may not sound convenient to you, but I am retired, have nothing else to do, and like to save money when possible.

Any other suggestions on alternatives or improvements to the system would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Yes you can...BUT it will cycle on and of rapidly and eventually burn out / wear out the pump...Then you will need a pump and tank...

A cycle stop valve may work but that is for others to tell you about...

If it were me I would just replace the tank...using the same size as it will keep the number of cycles down increasing the pump life...

dumb suggestion

With much lower demand than previously -- outdoor use only -- you can probably get by with a much smaller pressure tank than you had before. Tanks in the 15 to 20 gallon range are not too expensive. Even that would keep your pump cycles down to a reasonable level.

I would explore both installing a smaller pressure tank and using the cycle stop valve.
As I see valveman is currently viewing this thread I'm sure he will be with you shortly on the cycle stop valve.

I was going to send him a pm to bring your thread to his attention but his homepage indicated he was looking at your thread.

You can use one of these;

https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick-typical-applications

It only has a 4.4 gallon tank but, it has a Cycle Stop Valve so that tank is plenty.

You can just turn the pump on when you need water and off when you don't. You should do away with the pressure tank and pressure switch to do this. Then you need to make sure you have enough faucets on to keep the pressure from getting to high, before you turn on the pump. If you close the faucets without turning the pump off, the pump will be toast in about 5 minutes. If you keep the pressure tank and switch, you need to always run enough water to keep the pump running continuously and not cycle on and off, or the pump will be toast in short order.

Hi. First post here.

This thread asks the question I wanted to ask. Do I need a tank?

Just a bore hole. 6" ID. About 56 feet down to a nice aquifer. Recharge 40-50 gallons per minute.

This is on some property in central Texas, and I might need to put some kind of well on it to keep the cattle on the property (neighbor's cattle, and I get the ag exemption). I wouldn't need much--just a flow of water to a stock tank. The float cutoff system could be rigged in the tank, and I don't really see the need for a pressure tank.

My biggest problem here is that it freezes in the area pretty often in the winter, and I can't run up and shut things off, turn on heat, etc when a freeze is coming. So I'm hoping I can do something like put a submersible pump inside the pipe, (small pump, 115 V), insulate and bury the pipe running to the tank, then just let it run as needed. I'd put a little take-off faucet for other water uses as needed along the way, probably at the lip of the tank.

So, would a pressure tank be needed here?

First time I've had to deal with a well, so any advice would be appreciated.

Also, should a submersible be hung below the frost line?

Thanks for any help.

Stock water only, just install a submersible and remove or drill a hole in the check valve. Then use a Square D float switch in the stock tank to start and stop the pump. If you run all the pipe in an uphill direction to the stock tank, when the float switch shuts off the pump, all the water in the lines will drain back down the well and not freeze. You will not be able to use any of the little faucets along the way unless the float switch is down and the pump is on. If you want faucets to work otherwise, you will need a pressure tank and pressure switch, and no hole in the check valve to keep the line pressureized.

valveman said:

You can use one of these;

It only has a 4.4 gallon tank but, it has a Cycle Stop Valve so that tank is plenty.

You can just turn the pump on when you need water and off when you don't. You should do away with the pressure tank and pressure switch to do this. Then you need to make sure you have enough faucets on to keep the pressure from getting to high, before you turn on the pump. If you close the faucets without turning the pump off, the pump will be toast in about 5 minutes. If you keep the pressure tank and switch, you need to always run enough water to keep the pump running continuously and not cycle on and off, or the pump will be toast in short order.

Click to expand...

I have this just installed. Works perfect. Still considering options since it is so big in an ADU space.
1. What exact parts and products would I need to replace with "smaller" system.
2. Videos I watched seemed like alt system is noisier since is working more often...(in ADU)

I had to look up the ADU TLA again. Accessory Dwelling Unit https://www.buildinganadu.com/what-is-an-adu
If you make changes, don't use galvanized pipe.

bobmane said:

What exact parts and products would I need to replace with "smaller" system.

Click to expand...

Reach4 said:

I had to look up the ADU TLA again. Accessory Dwelling Unit https://www.buildinganadu.com/what-is-an-adu
If you make changes, don't use galvanized pipe.

Click to expand...

that is stainless pipe

bobmane said:

I have this just installed. Works perfect. Still considering options since it is so big in an ADU space.
1. What exact parts and products would I need to replace with "smaller" system.
2. Videos I watched seemed like alt system is noisier since is working more often...(in ADU)

View attachment 77539

Click to expand...

Not only would the Cycle Stop Valve system with a 4.5 gallon tank use a fraction of the space, it would work better and give stronger pressure than that huge pressure tank. If you find someone who hasn't heard of the CSV in the last 30 years, you could probably sell them that big tank for enough to purchase the PK1A constant pressure kit and have enough left to make a car payment.



The PK1A will fit in a 24" X 24" X 14" space and can even hang high on the wall so it takes up no floor space at all.