Can't remove "bonnet" to replace cartridge!

**wannabe123** · 11-25-2008, 04:36 PM

I have a 10 yr old delta shower head that leaks (series 1700). Called delta and they sent me a new cartridge with seats, springs and quad rings. But I can't remove the bonnet. I have attached a jpg with my finger on the bonnet. By the schematic I have on the faucet, it looks like it just slides on or off. But I can't get it to move! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

**Dunbar Plumbing** · 11-25-2008, 06:40 PM

Try to get a wrench on the body of that valve, another on the bonnet nut.

Hit that bonnet nut with WD-40 or penetrating oil before removing the nut.

If the body twists, you'll be spending close to $600 to fix it.

If you have a big enough set of jaws, you can depress that nut where it changes its shape and breaks the calcium bond but it takes a good grip to do it.

Sometimes turning it slightly forward THEN backwards to remove can help remove it.

Remember, 2 wrenches to take that bonnet nut off; one on the body to steady it and one on the bonnet nut to remove.

**Cass** · 11-26-2008, 02:02 AM

To bad the original installer didn't use silicone grease on the threads when it was installed.

If you get it off with out insident...put some on when you reassemble it...

**master plumber mark** · 11-26-2008, 03:46 AM

Be very careful, very very careful....

Usually I just take a hack saw and saw through
that outer nut till I get down to the threads underneath...

then I get a good sized screwdriver and place it in the cut I made and twist it till the nut snaps....

then the nut will come off......and you can change that
stem...

of course you got to have another new nut on hand...

hj · 11-26-2008, 02:07 PM

Have them send you a new nut then carefully heat that one until it unscrews.

**wannabe123** · 11-26-2008, 02:54 PM

Hey, I just got something else to try. I called Delta to order a new bonnet nut and they told me to first try mixing half very hot water and half white vinegar, then dip a cloth into the mixture and wrap it around the bonnet. Let sit for 15 minutes and try to remove bonnet nut. Can repeat up to 4 times.

Will let you know.

hj · 11-27-2008, 02:53 PM

That will do the same as heating it, but might not be hot enough. Heat a LITTLE bit, and try to turn it gently. Then heat a bit more and try again. When the heat is at the proper temperature the nut will unscrew as if it were oiled.

**Phil Lloyd** · 11-28-2008, 06:53 AM

Using a pipe wrench on the bonnet nut while backing up with another on the valve body works well, but often there is not enough room for the thick jaws of a pipe wrench for backup and i use channel-locks. Any squeezing pressure on the bonnet nut seems to hold it tight against turning. I have only had to cut the bonnet nut with mini hacksaw one time (and had extras on hand so no worry). It can be hard to cut through where it wraps around the front but i cut far enough so that just prying through the cut with a screwdriver broke the tiny joining tab that was left.
I will try the heat method next time - that seems quicker, really.

Cass - Yeah, once you have found a crusty bonnet nut, you know to grease them babies on installation- hehehe

**Gary Swart** · 11-29-2008, 07:31 PM

Question to Rugged. Why will it cost $600 to repair if he twist the body? I recently install a brand new Delta valve body and 1700 trim kit for less than $150! Am I missing something?

**Dunbar Plumbing** · 11-29-2008, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by Gary Swart

Question to Rugged. Why will it cost $600 to repair if he twist the body? I recently install a brand new Delta valve body and 1700 trim kit for less than $150! Am I missing something?

When customers call me, around 20 customers a year, it's always an emergency meaning in the evening or on weekends, the "gotta have it now" rush to get the water back on.

I charge accordingly but I picked a higher number not knowing what area they live in...and it could easily hit $600 for the replacement.

The last one I did on an emergency call was $479 and I was being extremely generous on that price. It was on a sunday and I was scheduled to work in my other two businesses that day.

Start to finish was 3 hours, the faucet was under $100 which was a 1400 Delta Monitor Series with the R10000 valve.

That price you gave on the 1700 series is on target with price.

If the customer OR the plumber isn't capable of replacing the valve through that small hole, like I'm doing all the time, then of course with a remodel plate or access to backside of fixture just adds on the cost tally.

**Gary Swart** · 11-30-2008, 09:37 AM

Thanks Rugged. After I submitted my question, it occurred to me that of course as a pro you would be quote parts and labor whereas I was only considering parts. I was not implying that you were sticking it to the customer.

**wannabe123** · 11-30-2008, 01:05 PM

Thanks so much to all of you for your help and suggestions!

I did try the white vinegar/hot water mix ... but after two applications, nothing moved.

I then tried heating it. Needed two pairs of hands. Used propane torch (after wrapping other parts with wet cloths), and as one person heated it, the second person held the body still while periodically trying to turn the bonnet. It unscrewed easily when it got hot! No damage to the bonnet either!

When replacing the bonnet, I applied lots of silicone grease - for the next time.

All back together now, and working fine.

Couldn't have done it without you!