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Thread: new sandpoint

  1. #31
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    The filter is on,,,not sure what it is called but it is catching the sand when pump kicks in and all we do is flush it out whenever it is full.......or when my pressure is down! It is working to keep sand out of my waterpipes! Will use this till spring and if well does not stop producing sand then will look into a a new well put outside! Still no bill from well driller

  2. #32
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    The filter might be keeping the sand from the house, but it's eating the impeller out of your pump.

    Since you haven't paid this guy yet, I would hold out about 50% until he either fixes the problem or use it toward a new well that doesn't produce sand.

    bob...

  3. #33
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    Default Silt Problem

    #1 Driving a new well beside an existing well is not good unless the old well and point are removed before or after.

    Most states require a well permit prior to drilling or driving a new well. They usually require a new or replacement well to be installed 10' to 25' from any existing structure and must be installed by a licensed well driller of that state. A licensed driller stands to be fined or lose his/her licensed when not following these rules.

    Understand I'm not a state regulator. . . State Water Regulators usually know nothing about well drilling. . . they only know the rules the way they interpret them. In your case I wouldn't worry and I wouldn't publicize your new (replacement) well.

    That being said. . . It sounds like your new well is getting better! In your case it would be better to pump the well to exhaust (outside) in spurts. Say pump for 30 minutes to exhaust over several days. This allows the well to recover between pumping cycles. We call this developing a well. NOTE: 2-1/2 hours isn't very long to pump (develop) a new well.

    You may continue seeing silt and occasional cloudiness for a time. Silt settles in the tank and low places in the lines. Be sure to flush your hot water tank (by the drain valve on the bottom of the hot water tank) occasionally until you don't see any silt coming from it.

    Lastly, we haven't discussed chlorinating the new well and the plugging of the old well! The new well, pumping system and house faucets should be chlorinated by mixing 1 gallon of household bleach with 5 gallons of water, pouring it directly into the new well then connect the pump again and turn on each faucet (one at a time) in the home and let it run until you smell bleach then turn it off. Wait 12 to 24 hours then flush all the faucets until you no longer smell the bleach. This purifies everything!

    Depending on the quality of your drive pipe and sand point you may be set for another 20 plus years.

  4. #34
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    how do plug an old sandpoint!.....it is 12 feet below basement....we are thinking of maybe trying to pull it up but seeing it has been there for 40 years I dont now how easy it will be to pull it up. And who knows if it will evan come up in one piece,,,,ummmm!

  5. #35
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    Just an update on what happening with new sandpoint! The sand filter is still collecting sand,,,not much but still some. During a normal days use we have to flush it out once or twice......it is working for us now but am thinking that in spring when it warms up we will consider a differnet well... the current sandpoint has the finest screen available...I found out that if we go with cased well u can buy a finer screen for a cased well but on the sandpoint it already has the finest screen (hope that makes sense)

    From what I have learned the aquifer here is like quicksand...very very fine silt. What is the best kind of well to consider for here and the most economical one...

    Is there such a thing as a cased sandpoint well packed with silica sand to prevent silt from coming up! This well will not be in basement (as present one is) but will be outside then plumbed in....or what ever the proper terminolgy is!

    The current well is producing 8gpm apx and above average quality of water. Here is the latest water quality report taken last week.


    No coliforms no bacteria
    manganese .64mg/l
    iron 0.1 mg/l
    total hardness 473 mg/l Ca CO3
    nitrates 1.5 very very good!
    calcium 140 mg/l
    magnesium 30 mg/l

    This is just some of the report but gives an idea of the water quality....the lab tells me it is good even though the manganese is a tad bit high...the guide line level of manganese is .05

  6. #36
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    I thought I should add the 8 gpm is just what the guy set it at,,,,it would produce more if needed.. For right now we are only using it for household and filling one horse watering trough (75 gallon)

  7. #37
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    with the original sandpoint the manganese was quite a bit lower..016 mg/l the original sandpoint was 12 feet below basement floor....this new one the bottom point of the point is down 21 feet....the new well water does have a metallic taste to it which i am thinking is the manganese...we drink bottled water anyhow so for right now the manganese is not an issue. The biggest thing is to be rid of sand filter and have a well that does not produce silt or sand....Also when u first turn tap on if you look closely the water has a yellowish tinge to it but if u let it run for a couple of minutes it clears up crystal clear! Once in a while if can smell and sandy smell but not very often when tap first turns on! (you have to have your nose pretty close to water to smell this)

  8. #38
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    the current sandpoint has the finest screen available...I found out that if we go with cased well u can buy a finer screen for a cased well but on the sandpoint it already has the finest screen (hope that makes sense)
    I don't think you ever said if this was a 1-1/4" driven sand point or not. Makes no difference though, a fine screen would be the same for a drilled 2" well as it would be for a driven 1-1/4" well. It could be a slotted screen, or a gauze screen. It could also be one of those terrible hardware specials that no reputable driller would use. Bottom line, someone is pulling your leg. If you had the finest screen available, you wouldn't be getting 8 gpm much less more. And I am not sure how you "set" a sand point or a well to only produce 8 gpm.

    The problem is clearly; the wrong screen was selected in the first place or the one that was used was either torn (gauze screen) or slinkied which happens to wire wrap screens if you hit them too hard.

    bob...

    bob...

  9. #39
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    I agree with Bob. The biggest concern with your water quality other than the sand issue is the water hardness. I would install a new well, get sand free water,and get yourself a water softener.It will remove the manganese but most importantly the water hardness. If you are going to install this well yourself, you need to get yourself a continuous slot stainless well screan. If you dont know the consistency of the material, i wouldn't go any higher than a 10 slot. I believe Bob sells well screens on his website.

    sammy

    www.tylerwellandpump.com

  10. #40
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    we do have a new softner,,,the water test was straight from the well...the sandpoint is a drilled sandpoint 1 1/4 with stainless steel sandpoint,,,,berekleys 5SN Jet pump

    Quick update.....next to nothing for sand lately...we can go several days before needing to rinse sand filter and when we do rinse it there is very little sand...maybe my sandpoint is actually going to work like it should...the well guy says sometimes they take a longer to develope,,

  11. #41
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    I think he just neglected to operate that hand pump long enough to develop the well properly.

    bob...

  12. #42
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    hand pump !!!! I dont recall him useing a hand pump! All they did was once the well was down they attached a garden hose to the faucet and turned it on and ran it.......are you saying I went thru with putting up with all this sand for nothing! Grrrrrr! Anyhow it seems to be good......we will leave the sand filter on for yet as dont want to have a gritty shower...

  13. #43
    DIY Junior Member mahza's Avatar
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    thought i better clarify here....no more sand just this very very fine silt stuff it is like dust..........when i do take the sand filter off i take water straight from the well and if u ever so slowly pour the water from a clear container you may or may not see see particles of something very very small in water..you really really got to look hard for anything, like i mean you really do have to look hard and usually I find nothing....... So I think we are home free now! Yahoooo

  14. #44
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    Yup, a hand pump is the first thing I ever used to try to pump a hand driven well. Once most of the sand was gone, then hook up the jet pump and let it fly until crystal clear. Then hook the house to it. To develop a well, you should always let the pump go full blast with no restriction until clear. Then you are almost always home free of sand.

    bob...

  15. #45
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    Surging the well is the most important part of developing a screened well. When first pumping a well with a hand pump or a motor driven pump, the water will eventually clear, but there will still be fine sand that has bridged at the well screen. To remove these fines, the bridging needs to be broken up, in order to allow those fines through the screen. You can only do this by a means of surging the screen. With a hand pump, this is accomplished by dropping the prime and allowing the column of water in the well casing to drop and pass back through the well screen. With a gas pump, you can do this by throttling the pump up and down so the water in the column is surging back and forth but there can't be a check valve present. In both cases the process should be repeated until there is no more fines present in the water. This should also be done at a flow rate that is higher than the rate required for demand. " A well pumped sand free at a high rate, will pump sand free at a low rate".

    sammy

    www.tylerwellandpump.com

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