Sewage ejector pump questions

[oaklander]

Hi there,
I've been lurking for a while and doing a bit of research on ejector pump systems, but I've run into a few questions that I can't seem to get a clear answer to. First, a little background...

I'm renovating an outbuilding into an in-law type building with a full bath and kitchenette. The outbuilding is slightly below (less than 2 feet) the soil stack in the main house, but is located over 150 feet away. The ejector system needs to handle a toilet, shower, lavatory sink and kitchen sink. I have been looking at the Zoeller simplex systems with the 264 pump and 41 gallon basin.

The questions are:

1. I don't have a basement, but a crawlspace with conventional wood framing. Is there any requirement to backfill around the sewage basin, or can it just sit on the ground in the crawlspace?

2. Should I somehow isolate the basin from the structure to mitigate the pump vibrations?

3. Can these simplex systems safely handle a kitchen sink? I'm guessing most food particles that go down the sink (and through the disposal) are smaller than the 2" specification for the pump, but the fact that these pumps are rated to temperatures lower than water boiling temperature concerns me. Does anyone that uses one of these systems have issues with hot water in the wastewater?

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.
-Mike

[master plumber mark]

you can sit the pit down in the crawl space without digging a hole, its no big deal......

as long as the crawl space never floods deep enough to upset and toppel over the pit.......

the only downside I see is it might be better to sink it into the ground deep enough to be able to SERVICE or change out that pump someday..... that could be mean if you dont make it easy to service. with plenty of head room.


as long as you pump it as high as possible above the pit end of the system , it will natrually flow down--hill forever... and you can almost pump it uphill forever too
if it only has to climb a foot.

you want the Zoeller pump with the separate mercury switch....

you also want to buy a SILENT check valve



the pit will take about anything you throw down the kitchen sink...... heavy grease would probably not be advisable....

as long as the mother in law does not throw tampons down the drain, you will be ok.....


digging out moms tampons from inside the pump is something I would not
want to do even in my worst nightmares......

[Linda K]

Can you please recommend a sewage pump that has the mercury switch or piggy backed switch? From what I've read the pump should have a separate switch for the float from the motor; and an overflow alarm is a good idea. I'm totally confused as to which pump to purchase. It seems like the zoeller is best, but which one?
And why cast iron over plastic? Seems like it would rust.
Please recommend a few at lower/moderate price points that would accomplish all this.
I am replacing an 8 yr old flotec that was only used a few years. Yucky mess. At least I caught it before it overflowed!
And will any tank cover fit the tank? I'd like to replace the metal cover that came with the flowtec kit years ago.

This pump is for a basement in-law apt, with full bath and kitchen.
Thank you for any help.

[Redwood]

I consider Zoeller to be among the best.

[burleymike]

Anybody have an opinon on Goulds pumps?

[Redwood]

Seemed to be pricey around here.

[SewerRatz]

I prefer HydroMatic over the Zoeller pumps. About mercury switches they are banned for use in most states. The new switches look like the old mercury switches but have a mechanical switch inside with a pinball on a V cradle. Read the fine print under the switches on Zoeller's site. http://www.zoeller.com/zcopump/produ...ss/vlfspig.htm

Do not get me wrong about saying I prefer the HydroMatic pumps, its just their switches are easily changed. They use a piggy back pressure activated switch which is held on with one screw. The Zoeller is still a good pump and their built in Mechanical switch will give you years of life, and only requires you to remove 4 screws to remove the head and get to the switch inside.