You cannot shorten the compliant wires to less than required after the inspection. At this point you are now non-compliant and a spot check of the devices during the final inspection is no time to fail an inspection, especially when you will be forced into fishing new wire.
I see no reason to shorten to less than required and you will just make it harder for yourself when working with those wires.
I would never shorten wire less than code. the main point of in my inquiry was the basis for the "6~8 inches beyond the front of the box", whether that was set in stone (NEC code) or just "good advice". now seeing what the actual code says, (6 inches from box entry, with at least 3 inches past the box face) this lets me know that i can shorten what i did for the rough in (6 inches from the box front) and how long/short i can make it and still be compliant.
i really can appreciate having enough wire length for retro work. i had to upgrade some bathroom outlets to GFCI and replace some switches a few years ago. every single device that i replaced, i had to pigtail the wires because the original work (1968) left less than 1 inch of workable wire from the box front.
Leave them long unless you like soldering wires in a cramped box.
I would never solder wires in a box. I'm sure there's lots of code reasons with lots of basis in cold hard physics. but to me, soldering junctions/splices/devices just seems like a bad idea to me.
Use larger boxes which need plaster rings in the front.
Lots of good tips billy_bob.
I actually did just that not 2 hours ago. I needed to get an extra wire run into a 18 CU box that already had a GFCI in it. the reason i didn't use a bigger box is because the spacing between the framing studs did not allow me the side nailer box and the only thing i found was the box with the front flange for attaching to metal studs and they only come in 18CU. after further wracking my brain, i nervously whipped out my saw-z-all and cut a chunk out of the stud and mounted a 2-gang, deep, j-box and put a 1-gang mud ring. don't worry, the wall is not load bearing. it was put up in front of a concrete foundation wall for the sheetrock to be nailed to, and give me framing space to run wires and insulate.
With a switch, you need to stick the wires and the switch into the box. With a light fixture, nothing needs to go into the box except the wires (more room!). So run power to the light fixture instead of to the switch. Just run one wire to the switch.
call me archaic, but if i can help it, i prefer to always go power -> switch -> device. I know how to wire up the switch-at-the-end configuration, but personally, i prefer not to use it.
If you have a bunch of wires which need to connect to each other, use a junction box in an accessible place like attic or basement.
have done that too. I even put a telescoping ladder to make getting into the attic easier, as well as stringing some lights and a couple outlets up there too. in the basement, i decided on a drop ceiling for two reasons - (A) so i can easily access the upper space if i need to run new network or video wires and (B) so that j-boxes as hidden, but accessible.
Use a box extender then you get twice the depth.
did not know that such things existed. i'll have to go scope one out next time i'm at the big orange box store.
