You will note on the upper right side of page 2 there are specific requirements for the spout connection.
It must be 6" to 12" lower than the mixer valve and must be 1/2" copper or IPS sized pipe only. If PEX or CPVC is used the showerhead will dribble.
Not mine! But yes, and since I was working with a used tub that already had holes in wrong places, I did have to do a little extra work to get the minimum length necessary.
WHAT THE F IS THAT???!!!!!!!!
You've got that valve upside down, using the shower for the tub spout, the tub spout port for the shower.
Hot is cold and cold is hot........you "may" of been able to switch index buttons but I'm thinking the valves open 180 opposite of their normal on/off patterns.
That blocking would have me using C-4 explosives behind that wall.
Anyone accidentally hits that tub spout a few years from now, it's going to shear right off because CPVC is very brittle as it ages.
The biggest question is "HOW did you get the spout attached" given that the bottom section is not parallel to the wall.
And if you had room to make the double 90 offset, you should have been able to drop straight down.
Surely if you had a 1/2 decent water supply the water would come out of both. There is no doubt in my mind!
just put in a new Moen shower with temp control and when I go to fill the tub with water the shower dribils water out how do i fix that?
J Carr
Yes, I thought you might enjoy commenting on it!
The directions specifically said the valve could be used either way by re-positioning an internal part, and the valves are both still "righty-tighty" (off) and "lefty-loosey" (open) with hot on the left and cold on the right.
Yes, and that would be about the only way to ever damage it!
Yes, that is a problem I did not know about at the time and will need fixing if that ever happens. However, there is a sump in the floor just a couple of feet from there, so the broken PVC will be the only damage.
This is awkward, but...
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