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Thread: Oven Range hookup

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member jerome8283's Avatar
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    Default Oven Range hookup

    The new range I would like to purchase requires a 40amp circut but I have a 50amp. Can I hookup this range to the 50amp?

    Also the wiring is coming from the wall, not connected to an oulet. What would be the cost to install a 3 prong oulet?

  2. #2

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    Sure why not, do it and don't worry about the data plate on the range. I don't know why they put them on there anyway.

    Outlet is under $10. so DIY.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  3. #3
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerome8283 View Post
    The new range I would like to purchase requires a 40amp circut but I have a 50amp. Can I hookup this range to the 50amp?
    Why not just install a 40 amp breaker? It is fairly easy to do!

    Quote Originally Posted by jerome8283 View Post
    Also the wiring is coming from the wall, not connected to an oulet. What would be the cost to install a 3 prong oulet?
    4 wire, four conductor, 4 conductor, four wire.

    I hope I made it clear enough that you will need two hots, a neutral and an equipment grounding conductor for that brand new range that you are going to change the 50 amp breaker to a 40 amp breaker and install 4 conductor cable to supply?

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Those guys sometimes get kind of flippant (usually justified, but not always!). On a dedicated circuit, your CB should match the manufacturer's specification. Current codes also require this to have the 4-wire cable. So, if the wire is 4-wire, (and it was sized properly when installed), you can pop out the old CB, put in a 40A one, and put in a new appropriate plug. There's no problem having larger wire than required for the load (as long as it will fit into the connectors), but you can't have smaller wire than specified for the CB you use.

    If the wire size or conductor count isn't sufficient, the whole thing needs to be rewired.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member jerome8283's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Southern Man View Post
    I just had a new range delivered and installed by the appliance retailer. My house is 15 years old and I am aware of the recent code change from 3 to 4 wire. According to the installer, the ranges don't come with cords. They have an assortment in the truck, find out what kind of outlet you have, and match the cord to it.
    I don't have an outlet. The wire comes directly from the wall hard wired to the current range. The label on the range states (3 wire).

    The manufacture manual states the following;

    Installation Instructions
    ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
    You must use a 3-wire, single-phase A.C.
    208Y/120 Volt or 240/120 Volt, 60 hertz
    electrical system.
    If the electrical service provided does not
    meet the above specifications, have a
    licensed electrician install an approved outlet.
    Use only a 3-conductor or a 4-conductor
    UL-listed range cord. These cords may be
    provided with ring terminals on wire and
    a strain relief device.
    A range cord rated at 40 amps with 125/250
    minimum volt range is required. A 50 amp
    range cord is not recommended but if used,
    it should be marked for use with nominal
    13⁄8″ diameter connection openings. Care
    should be taken to center the cable and
    strain relief within the knockout hole to keep
    the edge from damaging the cable.
    Because range terminals are not accessible
    after range is in position, flexible service
    conduit or cord must be used.
    NOTE: If conduit is being used, go to Step 3D
    and then to Step 6 or 7.
    On some models, a filter capacitor may be
    connected between the black and white
    leads on the junction block.
    ALL NEW CONSTRUCTIONS,
    MOBILE HOMES AND
    INSTALLATIONS WHERE
    LOCAL CODES DO NOT
    ALLOW GROUNDING
    THROUGH NEUTRAL,
    REQUIRE A 4-CONDUCTOR
    UL-LISTED RANGE CORD.
    ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
    CAUTION: For personal safety,
    do not use an extension cord with this
    appliance. Remove house fuse or open circuit
    breaker before beginning installation.
    This appliance must be supplied with the
    proper voltage and frequency, and connected
    to an individual properly grounded branch
    circuit, protected by a circuit breaker or fuse
    having amperage as specified on the rating
    plate. The rating plate is located on the left
    hand side of the lower oven front frame.
    We recommend you have the electrical wiring
    and hookup of your range connected by a
    qualified electrician. After installation, have
    the electrician show you where your main
    range disconnect is located.
    Check with your local utilities for electrical
    codes which apply in your area. Failure to
    wire your oven according to governing codes
    could result in a hazardous condition. If there
    are no local codes, your range must be wired
    and fused to meet the requirements of the
    National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA No. 70
    Latest Edition. You can get a copy by writing:
    National Fire Protection Association
    Batterymarch Park
    Quincy, MA 02269
    Effective January 1, 1996, the National
    Electrical Code requires that new construction
    (not existing) utilize a 4-conductor connection
    to an electric range.
    Location of
    model rating
    plate

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default power

    The label on the range states 3 wire, but that is only for the power source. New units still have a 3 wire power source but also a fourth wire for the grounding requirement. Older systems combined the neutral and ground so they only had 3 wires to the appliance. The outlet and range cord used will depend on which type of circuit you have.

  7. #7
    Licensed Electrical Contractor Speedy Petey's Avatar
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    I hate that they put that "3-wire" crap on there. It only confuses things because they do not say "3-wire plus ground", or something else for existing installations.
    Those words are not at all necessary. "120/240" is all that is needed.

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member jerome8283's Avatar
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    I ended up installing 4s and switched the 50 to 40amp. Thanks all!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by jerome8283 View Post
    I ended up installing 4s and switched the 50 to 40amp. Thanks all!

    Very good, common sense approach.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  10. #10
    Senior Robin Hood Guy Ian Gills's Avatar
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    I hope you removed the jumper on the range as per the instructions for a four wire install.

    Often overlooked by my fellow DIYers but essential.

    And equally important, the wire must be of the correct gauge.

    Using 4-wire for a range is a heavy, hard job. I did not enjoy running fifty feet of that.

    I'd hire a pro next time just to save my back.
    Last edited by Ian Gills; 11-20-2008 at 02:14 PM.

  11. #11
    DIY Member electrotuko's Avatar
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    I would appreciate for devise installing a wall oven, requires installation of 50A power line.
    I will be using a inch flex metal conduit from the electrical box to the oven location. Four 8 AWG THHN stranded wires will be running through (I have checked, they fit easily) the conduit.

    My question, should I use 8 gauge wires for only L1 and L2, and for N and GND use a smaller 10 AWG wire, since they will not conduct the same high current as L1, L2?

    The reason for question: In the electrical stores I have seen a power cord for the 50A rated oven (flex rubber cable as a replacement from the oven to the outlet) made in this way - two wires 6 gauge, two 8 gauge.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by electrotuko View Post
    I would appreciate for devise installing a wall oven, requires installation of 50A power line.
    I will be using a inch flex metal conduit from the electrical box to the oven location. Four 8 AWG THHN stranded wires will be running through (I have checked, they fit easily) the conduit.

    My question, should I use 8 gauge wires for only L1 and L2, and for N and GND use a smaller 10 AWG wire, since they will not conduct the same high current as L1, L2?

    The reason for question: In the electrical stores I have seen a power cord for the 50A rated oven (flex rubber cable as a replacement from the oven to the outlet) made in this way - two wires 6 gauge, two 8 gauge.
    1) 8AWG (I assume you mean copper) is not rated for 50A.
    2) You cannot legally place 4 #8 THHN in 1/2" FMC

    You will need to follow the data plate rating and the manufacturer's installation instructions for the installation.

    Is this a residential or commercial setting?

    If the cable is using #6 then why would you think you could downsize the branch feeder?

    Since you appear to not know what to do and you are dealing with a 240vac system, I would recommend a professional, licensed, qualified electrician do the work for you.

    I am sure you could get it to work like many people do but that does not mean that it was done correctly or SAFE.

    Electrical work is not a hobby.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  13. #13
    Licensed Electrical Contractor Speedy Petey's Avatar
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    .................
    Last edited by Speedy Petey; 11-25-2008 at 02:25 PM.

  14. #14
    DIY Member electrotuko's Avatar
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    jar546, thanks for your comments.
    Yes, this is a residential setting.
    Yes the wires are copper wires.
    I have checked the specifications for the THHN copper stranded wires; they are rated 50A at 75 deg. C.
    The same information was given to me in a local Home Depot store where I bought the wires.

    What is the current rating for the 75 deg. C rated 8 AWG THHN stranded copper wires included in a FMC for the residential applications?

    My assumptions, correct me if I am wrong:
    The replacement 50A cable uses 6 AWG wires most likely because it is a thick rubber cable, the wires inside do not have enough ventilation, plus the cable is flexible, not the stationary.

    I am curious if the all conductors in the cable intended to be used in the oven application where the neutral is carrying low current, need to be the same gauge?
    Again, the replacement 50A cable you may buy in the store has 2-wires #6 and 2-wires #8.

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