I would like to do repairs myself but that's why I need a softener that will not give me those problems in the short to medium range time frame, say 3-7yrs. I expect problems in the long run of course.
Big box brands usually only last that long but softeners using an Autotrol, Clack or Fleck control valve usually last 10-20+ years problem free, and then they can be repaired IF the person will. Many national brands use one of those controls or a proprietary version of them. In some cases the owner can't get the parts from the one'n only local dealer. So it's best to buy from an independent online dealer (or local, for nonDIYers), and buy parts online.
I have seen some buzz on other sites that do sales about the GE Logix and the Fleck. Also some Culligan buzz too. Any Comments on those products?
But if it means installing myself to save a few hundreds possibly even thousands on install, I'm willing to DIY this project.
(Basically I'm looking for the most cost effective choice with quality in mind)
thanks!!
For a couple of years I was one of only 5 dealers in the US that was approved by Autotrol to build a patented distributor system for a very special limited availability control valve they have and, I've sold many Autotrol valves and thousands of Fleck valves, and right at 1100+ Clack valves.
My experience (bias if you will) is that Clack is the best valve for a DIYer because it was designed to be an improved version of the Fleck piston, seals and spacers design and the easiest and fastest control to repair. There are only 5 parts not counting the valve body. No valve body ever goes bad unless frozen or the pressure rating is exceeded or hot water is run through the Noryl types; which is used by all those manufacturers.
The 5 parts are the meter turbine assembly, the motor, the piston, the stack (all the seals and spaces in one piece; 2 seals and 3 spacers more than Fleck) and the circuit board. Anyone that can wield a pair of Channel Lock type pliers can replace all 5 parts and have the water back on in 30 minutes. That includes checking the operation of the new parts.
The 5600 can not come close to the features of the Clack. The 5600 is a 3/4" valve and can not be used on larger than a 2.0 cuft softener or 1.5 cuft filter. The Clack WS-1 can be used on up to and including a 21" diameter tank, that's like a 7 cuft softener or filter. The 5600 does not have variable reserve or soft water brine refill or the ability to change the length of time the various cycle positions of a regeneration run for, so water efficiency suffers. And it doesn't have the ability to do an immediate regeneration and a delayed regeneration. It also doesn't have any of the extensive history and diagnostic abilities of the Clack WS-1, such as recording the highest gpm that has ever been run through it and the max gpm of each of the last 6 days, the total regenerations it has done, the gallons used for each of the last 63 days etc. etc.. And if you don't have the special 5600 tools, it is difficult to impossible to replace the seals and spacers.
Anyone that tells you that electronics corrode on Autotrol, Clack or Fleck valves is wrong. They go on about salt water environments, Cabinet models for those brands of control do not let air from the salt tank get to the control valve. And the distance between the valve and the salt tank on a two tank softener is like 3-4', so there is no possibility of salt air corrosion.
Out of 1100+ Clack WS-1 valves, I've had 21 problems in 4.75 yrs.. Three to 4 were lightening strikes. Had I sold that many Fleck valves, I would expect 4-5 times that number of problems. I quit selling the Fleck 7000 because of problems and high water use because of the variable brining feature.