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Thread: How do I filter my well water?

  1. #16

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    Here are the pictures the well, pump, and filter...

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  2. #17
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    I hope the Plumbers Forum guys don't see these pics.

    Why the big galvanized tank? I don't see any purpose for it.

    If it were for retention, you should have seperated the in and out pipes a little more than you did. Like going in the bottom and coming out the top.

    I didn't see the well, but I see an above ground pump and a strange looking fitting in the front of the first picture that I don't recognize.

    bob...

  3. #18

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    Hey bob thanks for the reply... if you browse through the earlier posts you will see that I just bought this house (well included) it was like this when I bought it. I am trying to get clean water into the house and this is what I have to work with....I am willing to change what I need, I just don't know what that is......

    My understanding is that this is a free flow well with the source coming from the cast hub located to the left of the clear filter housing.

  4. #19
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    Ok, I see now, the pump is pulling from the galvanized tank and the water is coming from that hub looking thing. Is this the actual well?

    I would get rid of the galvanized tank. I see no reason for it being used as it is. I don't like so called whole house filters, so I would get rid of that.

    I'm sure others have told you to get water tests done. Then get the proper equipment for the job. Maybe a softener, iron filter, both maybe?

    Glad you weren't the one to do that plumbing job. The plumbers here would have banned you for getting the bad plumbing of the year award.

    I didn't get a real good look at the pump either, but I think I saw a stainless steel band around the pump housing. If so, the pump is not of the highest quality either. At least you have a good Flexcon tank.

    bob...

  5. #20

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    Ok so my water is drinkable. Did not find out about chlorides and things. It was a free test so I can't complain.

    I had a well man come and look at my well. He pulled the tank pressure washed the inside and reset it. Moved the connections higher on the sides than the original and going to see what that does. I know that I will lose water amount by having connections closer to top but I can fix that later if this gets my water clean!!

    -Hosky

  6. #21
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    I still don't see any value in having that tank there. Water comes from the well into this tank and is pulled from it by the pump which in turn pulls water from the well. All this can take place just fine without the use of that tank and it won't clean anything.

    bob...

  7. #22
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hosky View Post
    I had a well man come and look at my well. He pulled the tank pressure washed the inside and reset it. Moved the connections higher on the sides than the original and going to see what that does. I know that I will lose water amount by having connections closer to top but I can fix that later if this gets my water clean!!
    I agree with Speedbump. If that tank is a settling tank to allow rust to settle to the bottom, you may have helped yourself but if the water coming form the well is clear, you wasted your money.

    Raising the outlet or the inlet to/from the tank will help keep the rust in the tank but, if the water has clear water iron, the air trapped in the top of the tank will oxidize (convert) the iron to rust in the tank and your water can go dirty again.

    I think you should have removed the tank and got a turbidity or an iron filter that would have been installed after the blue pressure tank.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #23

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    Thanks guys I want you to remember that I have not done anything to this well, it was like this when I bought it. I had a man come out and look at this system. From what I understand, the tank is used for seperating the sand from my water. I would be ok with getting rid of the tank but wouldn't that let sand into my house? Also, will the well keep up with the flow rate that I need? Great site and thanks for all the info.

    -Hosky

  9. #24
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    There are lots of ways to remove sand, but that tank plummed like it was isn't one of them. A tank half full of sand, like a softener tank will remove sand from your water. Trying to settle fine sand from water like you have there won't work very well.

    bob...

  10. #25

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    Thanks for the replys. It looks like my issue might be sludge build up on the inside of the well casing. Similar to what the other guy is talking about in his pipes. The well is 1600 feet deep and the well man suggested letting it free flow into a ditch for several days and see it that helps. This is a artesian well so I can do this from the side of the holding tank and it won't cause my pump to run so this "should be" free.

    My water is clean for a day or so then cloudy until I run it continuousy to clear it back up. There is some sand but that is not bothering me to bad, yet!

    Any thoughts on this theory are welcome. I am trying to avoid drilling a new well. Wells this deep are not cheap I'm sure.

    -Hosky

  11. #26
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hosky View Post
    The well is 1600 feet deep and the well man suggested letting it free flow into a ditch for several days ...

    Any thoughts on this theory are welcome.
    My well is a regular well with a submersed pump, but some greatly increased usage beginning a couple of months ago seems to have purged it quite a bit. So, that sounds to me like a good idea.

  12. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by hosky View Post
    This whole well thing is new to me.

    1600 ft free flow well. Here is my water flow from well to house.

    Well head water goes to bottom of 220 gal galvenized tank. Water comes from mid to lower 1/3 of tank to 1 1/2 hp pump (50 psi), then passes small air tank. Water then passes pressure switch to large canister filter, then to house.

    Well -- tank -- pump -- air tank -- pressure switch -- filter -- house.


    My problem is that my filter is clogging up to the point that I have no water in the house. I have a faucet between the pump and the filter. When the filter is clogged the water here is muddy looking. What can I do to clean the water better before it gets to the filter so I don't have to change the $25 filter daily?

    (I posted a new thread to help others that may have this problem)

    -Hosky

    Thanks for all your help
    Hosky,

    I think we had a similar sediment problem here. After much troubleshooting, and expensive suggestions by experts, I had a conversation with the builder of this home.

    He had me shut off the pump, connect a hose to the valve at the bottom of the tank, run the hose outdoors, open the valve and let it drain. For hours. At first the water came out dirty, then it cleared. I ran it for about 4 hours or so.

    Problem solved. The filters never clogged again, now they last for months. I do run water off that same valve to water the lawn. I get better water pressure because the filters are bypassed, plus it keeps the tank from building sediment.

    Try it, it won't cost you anything and may work for you! Note, the draining creates a whirlpool effect in the well, so don't use your water for about 45 minutes after you finish. If you use the water in the house immediately, that could cause sediment to come through the system. Give it time to settle down, then switch your pump back on, and see what you have.

    RF Burns.

  13. #28

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    Thanks RF, that is the conclusion that I have come to myself. I am actually flushing it everyday while I am at work. Cutting the pump off and letting the "tank" water drain into the yard. Going to do this for about 5 days and see how I stand. I cut the drain off, pump on and water is clean every night with no settlement. This is working for now, I just hope that I can get it to a point that I don't have to flush my tank everyday.


    I was told that my well was not used enough over a period of time so therefore, there was some sludge build up on the inside of the actual well casing that would break off periodically and dirty my water. Maybe some continuos use will flush it all out...

    -Hosky

  14. #29
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    There is no sludge that I am aware in any well water.

    The problem with using a garden hose and hose bibb is that you are only running the water at the same flow you would normally use in the house during peak demand hours.

    The pipe at the well head should be disconnected and the pump run open discharge on the ground until it is crystal clear. Then you hook it to the house and it shouldn't give you any more dirty water. If it does, you have a well with problems caused either by the formation not being properly cased off or a screen that was over sized for the aquifer.

    bob...

  15. #30
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    And running a well for hours on end can harm it by causing scale formation from hard water and/or increased bacterial growth in screening etc.; anywhere the velocity of the water is the highest.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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