Your going to have to send some pictures or give a better description of what you have before I can help.
bob...
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I have caused my self some headache. I had to dig up my well head to add a pitless adapter that was left out by the installer. In the process some dirt fell into my well. (I found an old license plate cut to block the oversized hole in the side of my well pipe) My pump has sucked some gravel and the system won't hold pressure. I pulled my pump up, it is a 110v sears 40/60, but I can't find the check valve. Is it in the pump, if so is it serviceable?
Your going to have to send some pictures or give a better description of what you have before I can help.
bob...
When you say it won't hold pressure, do you mean when the pump shuts off the gauge shows the pressure falling until the pump comes on again? Is that why you question the check valve, do you think it isn't closing?
You only need a pitless adapter if you are in a freeze area.
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thanks for your interest. I live out in the woods in alaska and my dial up internet would take all day to send a picture. If I can't describe it better I will try a picture. The pump is 34 long 3.75 d the motor is on the bottom and the intake is in the middle. The motor bolts are in the intake channel. The casing is stainless. At the top of the pump is a cast cone that necks down to 1" npt, on the side of the cone is a 5/16 bolt. I would assume the check valve has to be above the pump, but the top cone seams crimped on. If there is one in line I can't find it.
Gary, yes the pressure dumps in about 3 sec from 60-40 then back up when the switch kicks in. If I shut off the breaker it will go to zero. I live in alaska, it freezes.
You can buy an inline spring loaded check valve and screw it in/on the pump's outlet if you can't get the internal one off or out. Although if the old one falls just right in its housing it can reduce flow.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
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