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Thread: Where Do I Begin? Fan Motor Squealing

  1. #1

    Default Where Do I Begin? Fan Motor Squealing

    Hi Folks,

    I removed the fan sub assembley from the bathroom exhaust fan unit. The mator was squealing. Easier to take the sub assembly down and replace the motor than removing and replacing the whole fan unit, which is attached to the ceiling. So, where do I begin? Who sells fan motors? The fan unit is Broan. The fan sub assembly said Nautilus. The spec on the motor + fan is stamped on the metal plate of the sub assembly: 120V, 115A, 60Hz, 70cfm, 3 sones. The motor itself have UPPCO inc. stamped on the body. The motor have a 4 inch electrical cord with a AC plug that plugs into the main assembly outlet. The motor shaft have a spline end which the plastic fan is pressed into the spline shaft.

    Thanks
    xroad

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default motor

    If your local Grainger store sells to the public, ours do not but some apparently do, they probably have a replacement motor.

  3. #3
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Broan parts are available. As mentioned, a Grainger Dayton motor is probably available. Give us the model number of the fan unit, and all the numbers on the motor. I have some cross references.

  4. #4
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
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    Default

    Does it happen to look anything like this:
    http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(kp...px?SKU=3064904
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  5. #5

    Default

    Try WD40 first.

    Don't spray it on the running motor though as it WILL flame a bit. Don't ask me how I know this.

    Spray a lot on, run the fan, clean off and repeat.

  6. #6
    Computer Programmer Bill Arden's Avatar
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    I usually apply 3-1 oil first and then mix in heavier oil.

    Replacing the motor with an identical unit is will just make it last as long as the first one did.

    I did manage to replace the bushing on one motor with bearings, but that's not a simple task and I would not recommend anyone doing that due to the complexity and time involved.
    Important note Ė I donít know man made laws, just laws of physics
    Disclaimer: I'm a big fan of Darwin awards.

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default Wd-40

    As one auto mechanic says, WD-40 stands for "washes dirt formula 40", it is not really a lubricant. Dry or liquid silicone, 3 in 1 oil, or something like that may help. But usually it is difficult or impossible to get a lubricant into the bearings to stop the noise.

  8. #8

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    Once the motor is squealing, doesn't it mean the bearings are toast?

    Even if I get the motor apart and lube the bearings with the proper lube, wouldn't a new motor last longer than a re-lube old one?

    The engineer and the cheap ass tight wad in me tells me to tear into the motor and save it. The pratical side of me say this motor is only about $15. If I know the re-lube motor will last as long as the new, then it is worth the time and effort. If it is going to last another 12 months, and I have to do this all over again in 12 months, then I don't want to do it.

    Good logic?

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    Broan parts are available. As mentioned, a Grainger Dayton motor is probably available. Give us the model number of the fan unit, and all the numbers on the motor. I have some cross references.
    Don't know what the Broan/Nautilus unit model is. The sub assembly I took out had stamped into the metal mounting plate: 120V, 1.15A, 60Hz, 70cfm, 3 sones.

    There are 6 numbers on the paper that wraps around the motor wire core windings .....

    Model#: 85T (the number is fuzzy, possibly 05T)
    T.P. : "L" (I don't know what this number means)
    120V
    60Hz
    1.3A
    99080285 (possibly 99000285, I think it's a Broan OEM part number, many of their motor number is 99080### in their assembly diagram)

    Raised letters on the motor's metal shaft cap: UPPCO inc.

    The drive shaft is 1-19/32" long.
    The spline at the end is 18/32" long.
    The shaft diameter is 7/32".
    The spline diameter is 6/32".
    Mounting screw distance ... did not measure. They're all the same right?

    Motor looks ALMOST like the ACE Hardware one posted by leejosepho. Propeller is different. It's press fit, I can pull it off.

    jimbo, if you can please help me with your cross reference ... MUCH THANKS.
    Last edited by xroad; 10-26-2008 at 12:09 PM.

  10. #10
    Electrical Contractor jbfan74's Avatar
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    Default

    Sometime it is cheaper to buy the exact fan and remove the motor.
    Yes I am A Pirate-Jimmy Buffett

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbfan74 View Post
    Sometime it is cheaper to buy the exact fan and remove the motor.
    I thought about that. No idea what the Broan model is. It was installed at my mother's house a while ago. Can't figure out how it was mounted inside that ceiling. No visible screws from the room side. Not thrill about crawling into the attic craw space to look. Maybe I can open a few boxes at Home Depot or Lowes and see if the guts match.

  12. #12
    Homeowner Thatguy's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    As one auto mechanic says, WD-40 stands for "washes dirt formula 40", it is not really a lubricant. Dry or liquid silicone, 3 in 1 oil, or something like that may help. But usually it is difficult or impossible to get a lubricant into the bearings to stop the noise.
    WD = Water Displacement

    BTW, if they priced the replacement motor correctly it should be half the price of a replacement fan. The idea is to put you on the fence as to whether to buy new or repair. "They" want to you to buy new.
    In this case, though, the motor is probably most of the cost of a fan.
    Last edited by Thatguy; 10-26-2008 at 06:24 PM.

  13. #13

    Default

    Sometimes replacement parts are hard/time consuming to locate.


    WD40, oil and move on to more important issues. As long as it is still spinning, it's still working.

  14. #14
    IT Consultant / Network Engineer beekerc's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xroad View Post
    Don't know what the Broan/Nautilus unit model is. The sub assembly I took out had stamped into the metal mounting plate: 120V, 1.15A, 60Hz, 70cfm, 3 sones.
    check out http://parts.broan-nutone.com/broan/...000&PCR=1:2000
    once you find your model number, or the picture of the unit that looks just like it, you will be taken to a page that shows an exploded parts diagram of the unit and you can order the part(s) that you need. if you're not 100% sure, call 800-558-1711 and you can talk with a very knowledgeable the parts desk rep and they can help you out.

    I've used this service many times. one of the main reasons i keep buying broan/nutone products.

  15. #15
    Homeowner Thatguy's Avatar
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    Default

    I was just at HD.
    Bathroom fan, $13.
    Insides for same fan (motor+plate), $14.
    Fan motor from Hosfelt.com

    120 VAC Fan Motor $US 2.49 Mfg. - OH SUNG
    Mfg. # - F960112-2
    2-7/8" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/2"
    3/4" shaft
    120V, 60Hz

    This impedance protected fan motor is most
    commonly used in refridgerators, vent fans,
    battery chargers, amplifiers etc.
    35-162

    Supply and demand is alive and well.

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