(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: GFCI / GFI recommendation

  1. #1
    IT Consultant / Network Engineer beekerc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    94

    Default GFCI / GFI recommendation

    I am looking for a GFCI device, 20-amp, with no receptacles (i've heard these called dead-face, blank-face and pass-thru). here's the kicker - i'm looking for it to have two indicator LED's - green for "working, power is flowing" and red for "fault condition". all the brands i've looked at either have either either one LED that indications one condition or the other, or it has no LED at all.

    recommendations of any makes and models of GFCI's that meet this criteria would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    BeekerC

  2. #2
    Electrician Chris75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Litchfield, CT
    Posts
    608

    Default

    Your not going to find what your looking for, besides, whats so hard about not seeing a light lit up to tell you its tripped?

  3. #3
    IT Consultant / Network Engineer beekerc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    94

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris75 View Post
    Your not going to find what your looking for, besides, whats so hard about not seeing a light lit up to tell you its tripped?
    Actually i did find one, the HUBBELL GFSTBF20I. it has solid green for normal operation, solid red for tripped/fault and flashing red for end-of-life. now i just need to find a supplier.

    why do i need to have an active visual for both conditions? call it a personal quirk. not seeing any lights on the switch could mean that it faulted or it could mean that the breaker tripped. i prefer active indicators to passive ones because the presense of a light means something, the absense of the light could mean there's a problem or it could mean you've got a bad light.

  4. #4
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    If you Google "HUBBELL GFSTBF20I" you'll find several suppliers, including Grainger, which is fairly ubiquitous. Prices range from $40ish-$60ish.

  5. #5

    Default

    Plug one of those green LED night lights into a standard GFCI recep.

    Green = good, red = tripped.

    Crap.... you would have to bypass the photo cell.

    I tried.

  6. #6
    Electrician Chris75's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Litchfield, CT
    Posts
    608

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beekerc View Post
    Actually i did find one, the HUBBELL GFSTBF20I. it has solid green for normal operation, solid red for tripped/fault and flashing red for end-of-life. now i just need to find a supplier.
    Damn, your good!



    Quote Originally Posted by beekerc View Post
    why do i need to have an active visual for both conditions? call it a personal quirk. not seeing any lights on the switch could mean that it faulted or it could mean that the breaker tripped. i prefer active indicators to passive ones because the presense of a light means something, the absense of the light could mean there's a problem or it could mean you've got a bad light.
    you have too much time on your hands.

  7. #7
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 220/221 View Post
    Crap.... you would have to bypass the photo cell.
    If it's a discrete sensor, just put a piece of black electrical tape (UL Approved, of course) over it.

  8. #8
    IT Consultant / Network Engineer beekerc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    94

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    If you Google "HUBBELL GFSTBF20I" you'll find several suppliers, including Grainger, which is fairly ubiquitous. Prices range from $40ish-$60ish.
    I googled per Mikey's suggestion and while trying to determine if what I wanted was really worth the cost, I remembered that I have a graybar account that i seldom use, but hopefully is still active. So I called my graybar rep, even though I've never seen Hubbell advertised in any of their flyers or on their shelves, and they were able to special order them for me at quite a bit less than $40/each.

    PS. I was actually starting to think how i could make it work with a Pass & Seymour GFI (red for fault) and some sort of low profile night light, especially considering how regular GFI receptacles seem to be cheaper than GFI dead-face units - all i could figure is dead-faces are in less demand, therefore more expensive.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •