When do you need to replace a water heater

When replacing a water heater, use a drain pan

Hello,

Should you use a metal drain pan, or a plastic drain pan when installing a new water heater.

Also, the two copper H2O lines and gas line should be brand new. Is a flexible steel line okay.

Thank you.

A plastic one won't rust, but I've no idea about which, if either, is better.

As to the supply lines, in some places they REQUIRE solid piped connection, and in others they REQUIRE the lines to be flexible. Then, there are some places that allow either. You need to find out from the local authority what they want there. WHen installing a new WH, you should replace any old, flexible lines.

I'll do an intro in that topic, later.
I am also attempting to determine what I can do to improve or replace (if I have to) my Gas Hot H20 Htr.
I have a 17 year old AOSmith 40gal <I guess its called> direct vent Heater.



It doesn't smell or make noise and never has.
I've opened the drain, twice in the last seven years of home ownership, here, and the water was clear. I only opened the drain for a short period; water appeared clear; closed it.
I covered the heater IMO in appropriate areas with new, left-over bat insulation, maintaining that proper operation would continue without restrictions.
My question is: Even though I have no smell that would indicate annode decay/disintigration, could it be spent? Is there a link available that would provide a step-by-step proceedure to upgrage the anode?
Over the last four years, I first turned my thermostat down to conserve natural gas use. We have gas cooking and, in the summer months I only use about $28 worth of gas each month. I belive that indicates that we are conserving...
but, then I have had to increase the temp at the thermostat, gradually. And now it is all of the way up...



I am now at a point where I am going to have to take some sort of action, soon. I know that most would say, " It's time to replace the whole unit." I'm a frugal, retired <out of necessity...fewer people are having interior paintwork or wallpaper work done in this economy> 63 yo and, if I can do a repair that may extend its life, that is the way I would elect.
Also, I do have a small leak (2oz/24hrs) indicating that the presure valve is starting to fail. I have a new one that I purchased at HD. Are they standardized?
Thanks for any input, here.

To clean out the sediment, that joke drain valve needs to be removed and replaced with a ballvalve or just a nipple and cap.

Although you are likely to break it in trying to remove it. When its out, tape a garden hose to your shop vac and let some water run in while you suck out the 10 pounds of crud.

Then I would change anodes and likely get another several years out of it.

http://fierychill.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=anode

BIG caution for new water heater owners. I went to change the cheap plastic drain valve while installing, and discovered that the clown at the factory got it in on about 2 threads and then cross threaded and stripped it out. Would have blown out in a few weeks.

A.O. Smith temp. issue, cont'd

Hope I didn't mess up this guy's B.W. thread. Hind sight is 20/20.
I just came from the plumbing supply.
Purchased a new drain valve..brass, ball type and some tape.
I'm allowing cool down after removal of my extra insulation.
Have gas off and, once cooled off <I'm going to give it a couple of hours to cool, even though the water is not hot enough to scald, now.>, I'll open the drain valve and drain, then, remove the original drain valve and open the pressure release valve with the water source line shut off. Ran a hose from the original drain valve to the sump.
Once empty, I'll remove the original drain valve and inspect. Then, I'll do the flush proceedure.
Another note:
I released the old pressure release valve and, now it's leaking, big time! So I'm catching the water at the bottom of the drip tube. I'm glad that I had already purchased a new pressure release valve!

The old drip pipe from the original pressure release valve was puddied, not taped. Should I heat the pressure release valve to facilitate removal of the pipe or will that joint probably "break" loose when I apply torque? <gas is off>

I felt that I, by my mistake, was building on Richard8's older thread and it seemed to have a lot to do with B.W. heaters so, I moved my comments about the A.O.Smith to:
https://terrylove.com/forums/showth...-YO-AO-Smith-to-determine-if-it-is-repairable.

When do you need to replace a water heater - add drain pan

Hello,

I would like to thank everyone for all the advice and input.
Therefore, must replace when water heater when you see a slight leak coming from the top or bottom of the tank.

Is it important to use an aluminum drain pan when installing new "NATURAL GAS" type water heater.


Also, does anyone know aboout gas sediment traps ???

A drain pan is handy IF it has a properly run drain line. Otherwise, it is a mostly useless added expense. It used to be that there was a lot of crud in the gas lines and a sediment trap was essential. It is still required many places, and only adds a little to the expense of installation. Today's gas is pretty clean, but if any sediment did make it to the gas valve, it may just require replacement, so for that reason alone, it's probably a good idea, regardless.

If you have a drain pan, you might consider adding on a WAGS valve http://www.taco-hvac.com/products.html?current_category=65

When do you need to replace a water heater - add drain pan

jadnashua said:

A drain pan is handy IF it has a properly run drain line. Otherwise, it is a mostly useless added expense. It used to be that there was a lot of crud in the gas lines and a sediment trap was essential. It is still required many places, and only adds a little to the expense of installation. Today's gas is pretty clean, but if any sediment did make it to the gas valve, it may just require replacement, so for that reason alone, it's probably a good idea, regardless.

If you have a drain pan, you might consider adding on a WAGS valve http://www.taco-hvac.com/products.html?current_category=65

Click to expand...

Hello,
Has anyone heard of adding a gas sediment trap to water heaters for the Southern
California area. How much does this costs. Also, what are the size constraints.


Thank you

The most common thing is a 'drip leg'. This is essentially a T fitting at the end of the gas line with a short capped nipple on the straight-through section, and the gas line to the WH taken off the 90 of the T. Any moisture/crud that gets pushed down the line falls into that stub, leaving relatively clean gas to go out to the burner. This only adds a few dollars to the parts list and a few minutes to the install.

Yours already has one.

jadnashua said:

Bradford-WHite is a good brand. On some models, the anode rod is apparantly 'hung' from the inlet or outlet fitting, and not in a dedicated plug hole. I suppose this helps, as there's one less hole in the tank that could corrode and leak. Don't know that for sure.

Click to expand...

I just replaced a 40 gallon B-W nat gas W-H. It was about 10 years old or less if I recall right. I was looking for a seperate anode rod but as this poster mentioned it did not have a seperate one. It had one in the outlet side and it was in very good condition with some white, calcium deposits I would assume. It was serviced by a plumber a few years ago and sat unused mostly for 3 years...I turned it on periodically.......but mostly it was off. I turned it on a few weeks ago and found a puddle under it, cleaned up the water and it leaked again even more.....I Decided to replace it and and removed it immediately......I Bought 2 new B-W 40 gallon heaters. Got a discount for buying 2 and since I have a 2 family house with 2 water heaters.....I have one ready to install when the need arises....The price break for buying 2 instead of one was substantial.....Honeywell control.......Pilot lit right up after the install and it's running fine...No leaks...

18 years.
"How much to fix the leak at the top of the tank? "



"It just started leaking a few days ago."

Sorry, this isn't a few days worth of rust we are looking at. This is a 18 YO A.O. Smith water heater that is pretty well shot.