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Thread: Hand Driven Shallow Well

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  1. #1

    Default Hand Driven Shallow Well

    HI, hope someone can help. I have driven a 2" diameter galvanized pipe shallow well. I am 22' deep from surface with well point. I have a 3' well point, hooked to 5' sections of drive pipe with drive couplings. At the top section of pipe I have a T with a plug in the top and out the side go through the basement wall with a section of galvanized pipe (1 1/4" diameter) to a check valve then in to the 1 HP Jet pump (Fint walling). The pump is hooked to a pressure tank. I get good flow about 18 gpm and I have run the pump for an hour at full flow and still had no loss of flow. The problem is that I hear air at the checkvalve. I have replaced the check valve and still hear the air leak. I loose prime after a few minutes. I have re-tightened all fittings/ pipes above ground. Is my next step to pull the pipe out of the ground and remove each and then re-pipe dope then couple and put back in the hole?

  2. #2
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    It would seem to me that if your hearing air at the check valve, that is where the leak is. I would try replacing the pipe instead of re tightening. You may have a crack that you can't see. Suction lines can be cracked enough to leak air like crazy but not leak water.

    bob...

  3. #3
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    If you have 2" casing, and you find that your problem is with the well casing,you can simply put in 1 1/4" drop pipe with a flanged well head up top. The suction will then be on the 1 1/4" drop pipe and not the well casing. Sure beats pulling up all that well pipe. Speedbump should have well heads for sale on his website- www.pumpsandtanks.com

    Sammy

    www.tylerwellandpump.com

  4. #4

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    Sammy, if I just drop down a 1 1/4" poly pipe down into the well casing then Would I put on a foot valve or a check valve near the pump?

  5. #5
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    If you will have easy access to the well in the future, i would place a foot valve on the end of the 1 1/4" pipe in the well. If you are going to bury the well, i would not put a foot valve in because if it fails gaining access to it will be difficult. If the well head is going to be buried, then put a check valve on the pump. You will need that flanged well head i was talking about. It will seal up the space between the 1 1/4" pipe and the 2" casing up top so no sand or foreign matter can enter the well.

    sammy

  6. #6

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    Sammy, Thank you. I am not sure what you are talking about with the flange.
    Are talking about using galvanized or pvc in side of the 2" drive pipe and well point that I have already put in the ground? If I use PVC or galvanized pipe then I could just remove the T that I have at the top and hook up the pipe that I have coming through the basement wall currently. Do I drop the insert pipe down to how deep? The standing water in the well is about 80" or 12' from the top.

    Yes I will be burying the top of the well as soon as I get this air leak figured out.

    Is it hard to pull the well? I was planning to use my 2 1/4 ton floor jack and a chain to get it pulled up. if I were to do that now.

    Thanks for your help

    Kevin

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