Some disassembly and flushing is needed.
I relocated my well pressure tank, neutralizer, water softener, and brine tank from the front of my basement to the opposite corner (I had a leak and it was way too close to the electric service panel).
After all was done and everything was connected, I turned the pump on and opened the valve to the house. When I went to turn on the laundry sink faucets, I had no water pressure at all on the cold side, but plenty of hot water. Eventually, a bunch of dark reddish/brown granules came out of the faucet, and it started flowing freely.
All of the other faucets and toilets are having the same problem. I removed the shower head on one of the 2nd floor showers and the pipe was clogged with this stuff. When I cleared the clogged, it flowed freely, but when I put the shower head back on, it slowed dramatically again. I am pretty sure the shower head is clogged as well.
1) What do you think this stuff is, and where do you think it came from. I am guessing it is mineral deposits that must have come loose when moving the pressure tank.
2) is there any easy/quick way to clear up the remaining toilets and faucets or do I have to remove and/or replace all of them?
Some disassembly and flushing is needed.
I was figuring that. Do you think it is the shut off valves or the actual faucets/ballcock assemblies?
It could be anywhere. I would disconnect at the easiest point on each and check to see which way you have to go.
Are you sure the softener didn't get reversed?
Last edited by Redwood; 09-18-2008 at 07:07 PM.
the backwash cycle worked so I think thesoftener is fine
Last edited by fornarog; 09-17-2008 at 03:33 PM.
Redwood, you were right.
What a bushleague move. After I correctly hook up the softener, I need to start disassembling the faucets etc.
You'lll probably need to buy some new resin...it probably all got flushed out the pipes.
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013
Boy, what a job. It has almost kicked my tail completely.
I still need to replace 2 valves in one Price-Pfister lavatory faucet (of course the local Home Depot doesn't carry that one), replace the filters in my Reverse Osmosis system, and re-charge the softener, then I am finished.
Last night, while the water was off, my DW used the camper sink. Guess what, leaking faucet. I guess my Saturday is planned as well.
I hate plumbing...
Yes the 'stuff' is resin. Did you plumb the softener backwards, in to out and out to in, or is the distributor tube and/or bottom basket broken?
Is the AN filter connected correctly?
You may have resin in the plumbing problems for some time. Especially in any solenoid valves and toilet fill valves.
I did reverse the plumbing on the softener. What a pain. If I could afford to have someone do this kind of work I would, but with 4 kids, I need every nickle these days.
Hopefully, this stuff will flush through sooner than later.
I'll reply to your PM here; here's a copy.
I checked the neutralizer (is that what you meant by AN) and it was correctly plumbed.
My softener doesn't have a fill opening (like my nuetralizer tank does). Can I add resin without removing the distribution stem, or do I need to go through the whole process of pulling the unit, draining it, replacing the gravel, etc.? The resin is now very low (only about 1 foot in the tank).
Is there a specific type of resin I need?
The head looks like it is set up with some sort of disconnect mechanism where the lines come in that is held in place with a small aluminum plate (1/4" by 1"). Is this correct or do I need to cut my pipes since the head can't be removed with the pipes in place?
Yes the neutralizing filter.
You'd buy new regular mesh resin and gravel for your tank size; the model number gives you the dia and height. I sell both. You disconnect the control from the by pass valve. You unscrew the control from the tank. The dist. tube may come up with it. You dump the resin and gravel. You put the DT back in the dimple in the bottom of the tank and add the new gravel and resin. Screw the control on the tank and reconnect to the BP valve. Put the control into the backwash position and fill the resin tank with water, and step the control through its cycle positions back to Service as you check the brine position is sucking water and not air and you're done. It will take 45-60 minutes.
Awesome! I am looking on your site now for resin and gravel.
Thanks for everything!
I don't have little stuff on my site, you'd have to call me with the size of tank or softener you have.
Yeah, I include very detailed instructions.