(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Moved Pres Tank/Nuetralizer/Softener now no cold water anywhere

  1. #1

    Question Moved Pres Tank/Nuetralizer/Softener now no cold water anywhere

    I relocated my well pressure tank, neutralizer, water softener, and brine tank from the front of my basement to the opposite corner (I had a leak and it was way too close to the electric service panel).

    After all was done and everything was connected, I turned the pump on and opened the valve to the house. When I went to turn on the laundry sink faucets, I had no water pressure at all on the cold side, but plenty of hot water. Eventually, a bunch of dark reddish/brown granules came out of the faucet, and it started flowing freely.

    All of the other faucets and toilets are having the same problem. I removed the shower head on one of the 2nd floor showers and the pipe was clogged with this stuff. When I cleared the clogged, it flowed freely, but when I put the shower head back on, it slowed dramatically again. I am pretty sure the shower head is clogged as well.

    1) What do you think this stuff is, and where do you think it came from. I am guessing it is mineral deposits that must have come loose when moving the pressure tank.

    2) is there any easy/quick way to clear up the remaining toilets and faucets or do I have to remove and/or replace all of them?

    Thanks!

    Greg

  2. #2
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Some disassembly and flushing is needed.

  3. #3

    Default

    I was figuring that. Do you think it is the shut off valves or the actual faucets/ballcock assemblies?

    Thanks,

    Greg

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    It could be anywhere. I would disconnect at the easiest point on each and check to see which way you have to go.

    Are you sure the softener didn't get reversed?
    Last edited by Redwood; 09-18-2008 at 06:07 PM.

  5. #5

    Default

    the backwash cycle worked so I think thesoftener is fine
    Last edited by fornarog; 09-17-2008 at 02:33 PM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Redwood, you were right.

    What a bushleague move. After I correctly hook up the softener, I need to start disassembling the faucets etc.

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,388

    Default

    You'lll probably need to buy some new resin...it probably all got flushed out the pipes.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  8. #8

    Default

    Boy, what a job. It has almost kicked my tail completely.

    I still need to replace 2 valves in one Price-Pfister lavatory faucet (of course the local Home Depot doesn't carry that one), replace the filters in my Reverse Osmosis system, and re-charge the softener, then I am finished.

    Last night, while the water was off, my DW used the camper sink. Guess what, leaking faucet. I guess my Saturday is planned as well.

    I hate plumbing...

  9. #9
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fornarog View Post
    I hate plumbing...
    When faced with a job I hate I pay someone to do it!
    I hate painting and drywall work!
    I let others do it!

  10. #10
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Yes the 'stuff' is resin. Did you plumb the softener backwards, in to out and out to in, or is the distributor tube and/or bottom basket broken?

    Is the AN filter connected correctly?

    You may have resin in the plumbing problems for some time. Especially in any solenoid valves and toilet fill valves.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  11. #11

    Default

    I did reverse the plumbing on the softener. What a pain. If I could afford to have someone do this kind of work I would, but with 4 kids, I need every nickle these days.

    Hopefully, this stuff will flush through sooner than later.

    Thanks

  12. #12
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    I'll reply to your PM here; here's a copy.

    ***********
    Gary,

    I checked the neutralizer (is that what you meant by AN) and it was correctly plumbed.

    My softener doesn't have a fill opening (like my nuetralizer tank does). Can I add resin without removing the distribution stem, or do I need to go through the whole process of pulling the unit, draining it, replacing the gravel, etc.? The resin is now very low (only about 1 foot in the tank).

    Is there a specific type of resin I need?

    The head looks like it is set up with some sort of disconnect mechanism where the lines come in that is held in place with a small aluminum plate (1/4" by 1"). Is this correct or do I need to cut my pipes since the head can't be removed with the pipes in place?
    *************

    Yes the neutralizing filter.

    You'd buy new regular mesh resin and gravel for your tank size; the model number gives you the dia and height. I sell both. You disconnect the control from the by pass valve. You unscrew the control from the tank. The dist. tube may come up with it. You dump the resin and gravel. You put the DT back in the dimple in the bottom of the tank and add the new gravel and resin. Screw the control on the tank and reconnect to the BP valve. Put the control into the backwash position and fill the resin tank with water, and step the control through its cycle positions back to Service as you check the brine position is sucking water and not air and you're done. It will take 45-60 minutes.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  13. #13

    Default

    Awesome! I am looking on your site now for resin and gravel.

    Thanks for everything!

  14. #14
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    I don't have little stuff on my site, you'd have to call me with the size of tank or softener you have.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  15. #15
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Yeah, I include very detailed instructions.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •