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Thread: How to split supply line to go to shower and bath

  1. #1

    Default How to split supply line to go to shower and bath

    Ok, here is the situation, I'm doing a remodel where I had a combo shower and tub, and now I'll have a walk in shower and a separate tub. I've got the supply lines that are 1/2" .

    What I want to do is connect some stops to these lines and then have a 'T' on each of them, one will go to the tub faucet, and one will go to the shower.

    What I'm wondering is, how do I run the lines to each of the faucets. What I'd like to do is to just sweat on some threads to the copper 1/2" pipes after the 'T' and run some braided steel lines from there to the faucet connections. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work, or I should not do this?

    Also, does the shower regulator/knob hook up pretty much like a sink faucet? I've hooked up several faucets, but never a shower.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default faucet

    1. How will you access those valves once the shower and tub are complete.
    2. You cannot use braided supplies inside the wall. Someday they WILL fail and cause a flood.
    3. If the way to connect the two devices is not self evident to you, perhaps a plumber might be the better way to go. DIY may be an ego booster, but tearing out a shower because something does not work or is broken can be demeaning.

  3. #3

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    1. There will be an access panel to get to the stops.

    2. I don't have to use the braided pipes.

    3. I don't have the shower head/knob yet, so I don't know how they will be hooked up. So that's why that is one of my questions.


    4. Don't be condescending.

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Tub/shower valves are normally connected either with a soldered fitting (preferred), or a threaded adapter that then eventually needs to be soldered. Since you can't turn the threaded connection once it is screwed into the valve, and the heat to solder the other end could cause your threaded connection to leak, the better choice is to solder it in in the first place. Many valves accept either a soldered connection or a threaded one - if the pipe will fit into the valve like a fitting, solder it.

    If you wish, you can often buy a valve with built-in shutoffs. The hassle is way down the road when you want to service the main valve, the shutoffs may leak anyways. In the interim while working on the plumbing, it might be easier to just cap the pipes. You could solder on a cap, or buy a push-on fitting called a Sharkbite (sold at HD and other places). This can be removed when ready to finish things easily with a tool that comes with some fittings, or can be purchased separately (it's cheap). You could probably get it to release without the tool, but the tool is probably easier.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default items

    1. In the real world, depending on which tub/shower valves you use, the repair person will not use the shutoff valves inside your access panel, (in fact the plumbing for a tub AND a separate shower is often in the common wall where you cannot use an access panel), and since there is often no reason to remove the trim plate, he/she will never even see any integral shutoff.
    2. Good.
    3. Without knowing which valve you are using nobody can tell you how they connect, other than they are not like sink faucets even if they should look like it.
    4. Not condescending, just a realist.

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