Shower Drain help - copper drain pipe

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zoomzoom3

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I removed the existing shower pan by using a circular saw and cutting around the drain. The original pan was 34" X 48" and the new pan is 32" X 48"(on sale). I would like to install the new pan but need some assistance.

1) How do I remove the existing drain?(see picture below)
2) How do I move the drain to accomodate the smaller pan? Is it advisable to use one of the oatey offset drains?
3) Do I need to change out the copper drain to a PVC drain and how do I do that? Where do I cut? How do I go from copper to PVC? Parts needed (I read about no hub connections)

Any help would be appreciated.

-dan
 

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Wrex

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The connection to the drain pipe looks very nasty and I would repipe it with PVC for insurance more than anything.

I would cut the copper pipe from the WYE or just before the trap your choice about halfway and repipe from there with PVC for joining the pipes I would use a banded metal coupling NOT a two clamped (hubbed) Fernco.

Fernco couplings (which simply look like a piece of rubber with two ordinary pipe clamps on the top and bottom) can sag when exposed to the weight of the plumbing. This sagging can cause pipe blockage over time.

Banded couplings (or hubless couplings) have a metal band all around the entire rubber coupling with 2 integral clamps riveted on for support.

I don't have a shower in my house only tubs so I haven't had the joy of this project ;) someone else will have to comment on the other stuff.
 
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Jadnashua

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To center things with the new pan, sounds like you'll need to move the drain about an inch. I think I'd cut off the trap, use a no-hub connector to pvc or abs trap and arm to the new position. Depending on which way you need to move it, you might just need to adjust the length, or might need an 1/8-bend or two.

The copper scrap is worth probably $3-4/pound, so you can recycle it.
 

Wrex

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I remember reading about guys stealing wiring and water piping from abandoned homes with copper DWV it must be a goldmine.

Gold DWV piping anyone :p?

Thank goodness for the invention of PVC.

Can you imagine what soldering onto a used copper drain with who knows what in it smells like?
 
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Cwhyu2

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Theres a low-flex coupling that goes from copper to PVC made by fernco.
Iwould cut the copper 2" above the wye and re pipe from there.
That way you can adjust your drain center any where you want.
 

zoomzoom3

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Thank you all for the advice. I finally had a chance to cut off the copper. I did cut it off 2" above the wye. It took some tape and some careful hacksawing, but it went smoothly. I also found the right coupling.
Mission CK22

1) How tight do you tighten the mission coupling?

2a) What kind of PVC p-trap do you recommend?
2b) PVC P-trap with or without cleanout drain plug on bottom of trap?any issues with plug?
2c) PVC P-trap with screw joint or solder joint on one side?

3) Can you join two 90 degree PVC elbows with only a 2" PVC pipe?
**also copper traps and PVC traps are different lengths and dimensions. I'm not sure how I'm going to address this until I start assembling the trap.

mission-ck22.jpg


80915e10-0e13-4326-ac83-49489480ddac_4.jpg

This one with the solvent welds

14376268-25b3-4e85-8f1e-7502a4c04635_3.jpg
9b084004-1545-480e-ae3e-d71e9e5fabe7_4.jpg
 
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zoomzoom3

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I've made some progress.

Is this p-trap configuration ok?

The PVC trap is alot longer than the original copper trap so I couldn't go the direct route. Do they make a shorter p-trap for PVC?
(the one in the picture is 2" NIBCO stuff from depot)

Can anyone suggest a better way of doing this?

Thanks,
dan

IMG_2126B.jpg
 

Jadnashua

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Looks okay to me, but I'm not a pro...

Keep in mind that it is difficult to insert the pipe all the way to the bottom of the socket unless it is cemented...the cement literally disolves the surface and allows the two surfaces to weld together once the solvent dissipates. The socket is slightly tapered (it's called an interference fit), so you may not be able to fully insert the pipe during a dry-fit (as it looks like you have - don't see any primer). SO, things might not be in the same exact location when you glue it up.
 

Redwood

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1) How tight do you tighten the mission coupling?

2a) What kind of PVC p-trap do you recommend?
2b) PVC P-trap with or without cleanout drain plug on bottom of trap?any issues with plug?
2c) PVC P-trap with screw joint or solder joint on one side?

3) Can you join two 90 degree PVC elbows with only a 2" PVC pipe?
**also copper traps and PVC traps are different lengths and dimensions. I'm not sure how I'm going to address this until I start assembling the trap.

1.) 60 in. lbs.

2.) PVC without a drain or a union.

3.) I'm not sure what you are asking but yes you can use elbows but the 2" has to stay 2"


You have venting issues with the drain as pictured. Also I would get rid of a bunch of those elbows.
 
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zoomzoom3

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Is this any better? I don't think I"m understanding traps very well. If this is wrong please someone explain how I can do this. I'm getting ready to give up soon. I thought I was pretty good at this DIY stuff but am realizing that I"m getting frustrated.

-dan

IMG_2138B.jpg
 

NHmaster

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It's still an s trap but then so was the original piping arrangement. The wye needs to be rolled on it's side.
 

Jadnashua

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To work best (and properly), the pipe needs to be vented on the outlet of the p-trap. Because the outlet of the p-trap goes down to the wye before it can be vented, it's an s-trap. If you look at the path the water takes, it looks a lot more like an S than a P. The extra turns you had previously were okay, it's just the outlet's height relative to the path is wrong.
 

Bombjay

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Is this any better? I don't think I"m understanding traps very well. If this is wrong please someone explain how I can do this. I'm getting ready to give up soon. I thought I was pretty good at this DIY stuff but am realizing that I"m getting frustrated.

-dan

View attachment 5382

This is how many floor drains end up getting trapped.
To vent this you would need to run your drain to the nearest side wall where you could take a vent straight up from a sanitary tee(1 1/2 would be easiest and sufficient)and tied into your venting system.the drain the could be tied back in to the waste system. Plumbing code here gives you a distance
of 5' max from your trap to where the vent needs to be taken off.
Cross eyed yet?!
Hope this helps.Could anyone doodle up a quick pic of this for the man?
On the flip side of the 'doing it correctly' coin.
if the old shower never gurgled you might not have any trouble as is until you go to sell your house.
Housing inspectors here are a treat!
 
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NHmaster

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You know the reason it was piped that way in the first place was because the plumber couldn't figure out how to hang the trap without it sticking through the ceiling :D
 
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