NO it won't
I am building a house. I made a change in location and now my septic tank inlet is 4"-8" above my commode drain. Would a pressure flush toilet help?
Why did you do that in the first place? No, a pressure flush toilet will not work. Unless you can correct your mistake somehow, you will have to install an ejector pump for the basement plumbing.
HJ, I think it's worse than even that. If the tank is above the main line, the entire system will be full of you know what. He would have to dump the entire house into a tank and then pump it up from there. Seen it done, but it's expensive. Tank needs to be 50% larger than normal and so does the leach field.
I assume at this point he would direct the drain out through the wall high enough to get into the tank, and just pump the basement.
Sure, but maybe there is no basement, and I would be hesitant about overall frost issues here where I live even though I have heard a properly-vented line out to a septic tank should never freeze.
That would be a gravity line, properly pitched. Not a forced main.
A forced main has to be below the frost line or it will freeze.
IF this is not a house with a basement, then the inspectors screwed up when they approved the tank installation. The best solution, long term, might be a bulldozer.
Perhaps this question belongs in the "Why is Everyone a Plumber" section. You don't suppose this is a DIY construction job with no permits and/or inspections?
Maybe. I really cannot imagine ANYONE revising a building's plan so radically that the drain came out below the septic connection. AND in most cases the septic is not installed UNTIL the plumbing is in place so this cannot happen. Maybe this is something for "Holmes on Homes". I would love to hear what he had to say about the genius who let it happen.
That is why they make building pads so the house is up to the proper elevation. If it is a rebuilding, unless they completely destroyed the old house, the floor would still be at its original elevation. Forced mains are only full of water until they reach the point where proper drainage grade can be restored.
I would agree - best bet is to 'do over' and reset the tank and drainfield.
And, before you go making more changes - ask a few questions of the people working on the project with you. One 'little' change can cost a LOT of money. Changing things on paper is WAY cheaper than changing it in the real world...
Here in northern Wisconsin, we have had a few low-snow, very cold winters and MANY people have had their septics freeze up on them. Typically, little attention is paid to how deep that line is placed relative to the frost line (typically 48" here). I'd say 99% of septics are gravity.
- installed my main level laundry room floor drain in the basement;
- plumbed the water service through the basement slab into a shower stall (right next to the drain);
- installed the main shut off valve in the basement ceiling, above and behind a boiler;
- "forgot" a PRV valve, running 150 psi service into the house.