Bathroom Sink Trap to wall SUGGESTIONS???

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ThePhanatic

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Hello,
A friend of mine is selling his house(under contract) but the sink was dripping at the trap and the people want it fixed.

With the help of this board I was recently able to fix a SIMILAR issue with my own sink trap and I thought I would ask for more help.

The galvanized 1 1/2" pipe at the wall is just slightly less than flush.
The pipe that is(was) attached to this was a chrome platted piece that extended to the U trap. This piece virtually decintegrated.

Ideally I wanted to unscrew the old broker piece and expose some nice threads to attach a new extension piece.

Seems as though NOTHING is ever ideal in plumbing.

The piece extending into the wall seems NOT to have any threads on it.
It is inserted about 3 or 4 inches deep into the wall pipe and has a greyish soder holding it in place.
When I tried loosening it by turing It shred apart, leaving me with the 4 inches of inserted remaining pipe.

I guess I have these questions...

What is the greyish soder holding the chrome pipe in?
(plumers cement?)

What are my possible fixes?

What are my possible shortcuts?
What might be the proper way to fix it?

Like I said, I am trying to fix it for a sale, but really would like to do it as best I could.

Is there a tapered extension tube that I could slide in until it gets wedged and then fix it in place?
How could I fix it in place? Solder(like copper pipes???)
A certain cement?


Should I try heating the solder/cement again and try pulling the inserted piece out? Any suggestions on pulling it out of the wall pipe?
I can see the end of the inside pipe, Would creating a hook type tool help?

Could I use a hacksaw blade and slice the 4 inch inserted section ?
Does anyone recommend saing at pipes inside walls?(doesnt sound too good to me- but I am trying to brainstorm)

Sorry- no pictures...
I know they help...
If I get really stuck I will have to get some.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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your best path is a 1 1/4 fernco fitting

you have to make a decision on how you want to
fix this problem....


The easy way .....is to go get a 1 1/4 fernco fitting
and simply clamp it onto the pipe comming out of the
wall and attach the new trap into the other end

Put a excuption plate over it to hide most of that clamp
and you are done... turn the hose clamps to where they cannot be seen from normal view...

I have done it this way dozens and dozens
of times with no complaints..
in some fairley nice homes too
you can even paint the fernco if you so wish...
very simple and very easy....


the HARD other way
is you are going to have to get into the wall and basically tear out that solder bushing and get
back down to the 1 1/2 threads ..this could mean knocking out some tiles to get to that
bushing



...then install a 1 1/2 pvc male adaptor and bring it back out in pvc..

....usually this involves getting a sawzall and a steel cutting blade and cutting a few slices into that solder bushing so you can bang it out with a hammer and cold chisel..

this is manly fun that I try to avoid as much as possible





DO NOT ATTEMPT to re-solder that bushing in that old wall
or you might set your freinds house on fire....

that would be very-- very bad....
especially since they have the place sold..


I go with the fernco fitting myself
 
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ThePhanatic

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Pictures

OK- I drove 30 minutes back and forth to get the images...
Hopefully they help.<P>
FULL VIEW
DSC04519.jpg


SOME CLOSER SHOTS<br>
DSC04520.jpg

<P><br><P>
DSC04514.jpg
<P><P>
This is one of the better shots at the solder/cement?
DSC04523.jpg
<P>
 
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ThePhanatic

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Here is what was connected to it...
<br>
DSC04516.jpg
<P>

It almost appears as it is smooth inside this U trap connector as well(no threads)
DSC04517.jpg
<P>
And this is the nut that was attaching it to the old pipe in the wall....<br>
DSC04518.jpg


What do you guys think???
 

Redwood

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Thats not going to be an easy one...
I'm thinking though...
what might be the best way to send you after this one...

You have to open up that hole just to use a fernco like Mark was talking...
 
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ThePhanatic

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What type joint was it?
brass pipe with chrome plating soldered to the galvanized wall pipe?
Generally the soder i use on copper fittings doesnt look like that- is there another type of soder?

I am gonna give a hammer/screwdriver/chisel a shot to see if I can pry the inserted pipe away from the wall pipe.

If that does work without damaging the wall pipe, should I then re-insert a 1 1/2" tail pipe into the same wall socket and soder like before?
Is there a more professional way to do it?
If there are threads- its a no brainer I will have no issues.
I will be able to place an extension pipe threaded into it.

So I guess we will see where the hammer gets me...
I will be trying this tomorrow early so any suggestions tonight will be appreciated.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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you are into it deep

you ar eloooking at the solder bushing already...


their is nothing left to grab onto..

That is the solder bushing in the pic,

so you are going to have to slice that solder bushing out
with either a small hack saw or a sawzall..it will fal out of the joint
oce you cut the brass down to the steel pipe.....

you will end up with 1 1/2 female threads when its all over..

then I would go get a 1 1/2 short galvanized nipple
and thread that back into the joint...

then you put your PVC 1 1/2 trap into the galvanized nipple and tighten it alll down...
 

hj

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pipe

First you have to remove the rest of the trap tubing from the solder bushing without burning the house down. Then you have to cut the solder bushing out of the elbow without damaging the elbow's thread. Then you need a galvanized nipple and a trap adapter. Once all that is done you can connect the new trap. The easiest and safest way to do the above is to call a plumber.
 

NHmaster

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Gotta agree. This is the kind of project that can (already has actually) turn ugly real fast.
 

Terry

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From a plumbers point of view, those are some scary pictures.

I'm glad it's not one of my jobs.
I would have been tempted to access the back wall and replace the tee in the wall.
 

Master Plumber 101

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From a plumbers point of view, those are some scary pictures.

I'm glad it's not one of my jobs.
I would have been tempted to access the back wall and replace the tee in the wall.
Terry, just curious as to why you would open behind the tee vs making a clean opening in the cabinet. There appears to be plenty of space in the vanity. My opinion is to try to slice the tubular fitting threads from the tee, the only problem is if the threads are not in the best of shape you'll need a 1/1/4 or 1/1/2 tap to clean up the threads.

USAflag.gif
Union Made
 

Terry

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why you would open behind the tee vs making a clean opening in the cabinet. There appears to be plenty of space in the vanity.


No good reason.
You're right, with the cabinet there it wouldn't matter.
I was looking too quickly at the tile on the wall.
My mind tells me it's an exposed wall.
But it's not darn it. Just cut the wall there if you need to.
With the cabinet, who would even know?
 
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ThePhanatic

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Plumber Angel still on my side.

Early this morning I was able to cold chisel out the ring and expose the clean femail 1.5" threads.
I put in a new 1.5"' MALE GALVANIZED EXTENSION AND ADDED A NEW 1.5" TRAP JOINED TO THE 1.25" EXTENSION DRAIN.

ALL WENT REALLY WELL ALL IN ALL.

NOW I have a new problem.

THAT sink(which I snaked out several times before reinstalling, the tub in that bathroom do not drain.

The toliet flushes slowly, but does clear out.

I went in the basemanet and the pipes are exposed in the rafters.
I pulled the tub trap(boot) and some debris, but no blokage.
I tried snaking the section from the tub passed the sink outlet and toilet outlet section and ii(snake) will NOT make the turn near the sink.

The galvanized pipe does have a 1.5" stopped(square end cap nut)
BUT I cannot remove it.
I tried blasting it with liquid wrench, wd 40 and even carb cleaner(was desperate for spays...lol)


I tries a 24-26" plumbers wrench with a 4 foot extension pipe with not even a budge.

Now I need advice on removing this end cap.

Thanks in advance.
ERIC
 

Redwood

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Now it's really time for a plumber...
He'll snake the drain without removing that plug and all will be fine!
 

ThePhanatic

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Never Quit Attitude!

C'MON,
thats the best advice?

I am not gonna let one bolt keep me away from conquering this project.
There has to be some tricks.

I quickly tried heating it, BUT may give this another try in the AM.

Any other ideas????
 

Redwood

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Okay...
Run down and see homey at the depot rent a powered drain cleaning machine...
Hope that Smockman sets you up with the right sized machine and cable...
Come back and try to use it only to discover that some bozo kinked the cable right where where you need to push hard...
Have a few extra feet shoot out of the drum and twist up...
breaking a couple if fingers in the process....

Throw in the towel and call a plumber....
Seriously it was good advice!

You really don't need to remove that galv. plug....
 
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I don't think this is a job for a home owner or handyperson. Trust me, call a plumber to fix this. This is the kinda job that having the right tools and a boatload of experience makes all the difference in the world. It's really not that hard...if you've done a few before and know what you're doing.
Wanna learn? Hire a pro and watch.
 
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