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Thread: toto drake not shutting off crisply

  1. #1

    Default toto drake not shutting off crisply

    Hi everyone,

    Our Drake is about 9 months old and is no longer closing its valve sharply. Instead there is a not so brief "fuhweeeahhhh" noise as the valve takes its last sips of water and then it shuts off.

    We have high water pressure.

    A toto Carlyle was installed at the same time and is not having this problem. The Carlyle is on the 2nd floor, the drake is on the ground floor.

    We're a 2 person household, the drake gets the most flushes per day.

    ideas?

    Thanks to everyone on here - this site has been an enjoyable and helpful resource to us for a while.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    How high is the water pressure? It can put a lot of strain on not only the toilet fill valves, but the washing machine and possibly dish washer hose along with that to the icemaker. You really might want to consider a pressure reduction valve if it is high.

    There might be a little crud built up on the seal. It's quick and easy to take apart the valve. You may want to pick up a replacement seal (assuming it is a Korky valve) at a plumbing supply or Lowes ($2-3). Replacing it may solve the noise issue if it isn't some dirt. The real long-term fix may be a PRV and expansion tank.

    http://www.terrylove.com/korky/
    Last edited by Terry; 11-01-2008 at 03:53 PM.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3

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    Thanks for your prompt thoughts.

    Home inspector said water pressure is close to 120psi.

    Last year I spoke with our plumber about this and the idea of a PRV. His take was that he often gets called out to remove them after he's put them in since people are unhappy with the drop in pressure. I asked about any concerns in terms of, uh, pressure or wear on faucets etc but he didn't think there was a significant issue.

    We've only been here a year so I cannot comment on pressure related failures / premature wear on anything like the washing machine etc. Previous owners had been here 5-7 years and didn't mention anything specific. Supply lines are all copper (having replaced galvanized, the house is 100 years old).

    thanks for the link on the seal / Korky issue, I'll look into that.

    thanks again.

  4. #4
    Senior Robin Hood Guy Ian Gills's Avatar
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    120?

    I wonder what it's like to take a shower in that?

    And do glasses break when you turn on a faucet to fill them with water?

    I am at about 70-80psi and that is enough thank you.

    Poor little Korky valve.

  5. #5
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    You need to install a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) & a Thermal Expansion Tank on your water heater. By code pressure should be regulated to less than 80 PSI.

  6. #6

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    In my opinion, 60PSI is more than enough to be dangerous. If you've got 120 lbs of static water pressure, you've got a catastrophe in waiting. Unhappy about the drop in pressure? You'll be more unhappy when you come home to a couple of feet of water.
    Steve's Plumbing Service

  7. #7
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You're lucky the toilet valves and the washing machine hoses haven't burst...put in BOTh the PRV and an expansion tank and I think that problem will go away.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  8. #8

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    hahaha. thanks for the vivid imagery guys. jinx.

    the water hammer is impressive at times.

    we use low flow showerheads so it's not like we're pressure washing ourselves.

    I'll talk to our plumber about getting a PRV and thermal exp tank installed.

    might not be a bad idea to verify the PSI reading that the home inspector took too, just in case.

    thanks.

  9. #9
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Where I'm at, anything over 80 PSI is a required pressure reducer and expansion tank.
    I'm surprised your plumber didn't know that.

    In Kent, I saw a house with a leaking T&P valve on the water heater with pressure that was 120 PSI and more.
    Water pressure goes up at night as the towers fill, and nobody is using the water.
    A T&P is set to 150 PSI, not a lot more than what you already have.

  10. #10
    Plunger/TurdPuncher kingsotall's Avatar
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    After a day running gas/pipe threader I could definitely go for the 120 PSI shower.

  11. #11
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    I wonder what a showerhead on the jetter would be like.... LOL

  12. #12

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    for the PRV and tank: are there brands or configurations I should prefer / demand? A gauge on each side of the PRV is the way to go, right?

    Does it make sense shopping for these myself (online or otherwise) and just having the plumber on hand for the install?

  13. #13
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Does it make sense shopping for these myself (online or otherwise) and just having the plumber on hand for the install?
    These are normal "on the truck" items for a plumber.

  14. #14

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    the update:

    Well pressure it was. I confirmed this in the days before the plumber came by reducing the flow on the supply line valve.

    Consumers should not assume that anything is on the truck. The representatives of a 100+ year old company had no pressure gauge -- to test the current water pressure in the house -- and only knew of one colleague who may have had one, none at the shop.

    Nor did they have any gauges to install on either side of the PRV. So we are at PSI unknown right now since we've fiddled with it a bit. Expansion tank, no problem.

  15. #15
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by starfieldroad View Post
    the update:

    Well pressure it was. I confirmed this in the days before the plumber came by reducing the flow on the supply line valve.

    Consumers should not assume that anything is on the truck. The representatives of a 100+ year old company had no pressure gauge -- to test the current water pressure in the house -- and only knew of one colleague who may have had one, none at the shop.

    Nor did they have any gauges to install on either side of the PRV. So we are at PSI unknown right now since we've fiddled with it a bit. Expansion tank, no problem.
    I'd find another plumber.
    I have 2 gauges on my truck!

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