|
|
|
Why would you think that 600W for the two tracks would work well on a 300W rated switch? You ARE overloading the switch, and it likely will fail, and could very easily start something on fire in the process.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer
No I will not. I have better things to do than reading through insurance policies! Note that there is more than what the policy states. There is also state insurance law, state administrative rules, and court case history. This is not fun stuff to research!
However, here is one of many sources on this...
[Electrical work by the homeowner might affect not only safety but also fire insurance coverage. If a fire loss claim results from wiring you installed, the company may classify you in a higher risk category or in some cases your insurance company may fail to honor your claim entirely.]
http://www.inspect-ny.com/electric/Electrical_Code.htm
P.S. The way this works, is the insurance company will find *any* reason they can, not to pay a claim. They like to receive money, but not pay it out.
Then you go to court...
Then the insurance company says "Well the wiring was not installed properly as it should have been. It is not reasonable that we should have to pay for this damage because the homeowner did not take care to install the wiring properly, etc., etc."
Then what can the homeowner say?
Then a judge or jury decides....
If someone could help me to resolve my dilemma, I would appreciate it. Is there anything like a 1000W/Fan switch available. Or would an 800W/Fan switch be okay. Any other suggestions.
You have a load of 600W with the lamps, not counting the fan when it is on for that switch. You need to find a switch rated for what you have, which may not be easy. The switches are designed for lights attached to the fan itself, not externally mounted lamps, so the total Wattage available on a switch is unlikely to provide more capacity. Now, there's nothing preventing you from separating the light circuit entirely from that fan/light switch and adding one dedicated exclusively for the lamps. Most standard wall switches are rated at 15A. If you want a dimmer for the lights, you might want to get a 1000w dimmer since for space purposes, you may need to remove the heat sink tabs, which will derate it from the maximum, and should still meet the 600W capacity. If the wall electrical box is not big enough to add a switch, then you'll need to take the existing one out and put in a larger one. This may be beyond your capability. It should be easy for an electrician. Basically, in the electrical box, you'd find the wire that controls the lights. Take it off of the existing switch, then put it on one terminal of the new switch, then jumper power from the box to the other terminal of the switch. That's one example for a typical situation, which MAY NOT be what you have - as in many things, there is more than one way to make a connection, and we're not there to tell exactly what you have to tailor it to what is needed.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer
Bookmarks