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Thread: Bathroom Sink Trap to wall SUGGESTIONS???

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member ThePhanatic's Avatar
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    Default Bathroom Sink Trap to wall SUGGESTIONS???

    Hello,
    A friend of mine is selling his house(under contract) but the sink was dripping at the trap and the people want it fixed.

    With the help of this board I was recently able to fix a SIMILAR issue with my own sink trap and I thought I would ask for more help.

    The galvanized 1 1/2" pipe at the wall is just slightly less than flush.
    The pipe that is(was) attached to this was a chrome platted piece that extended to the U trap. This piece virtually decintegrated.

    Ideally I wanted to unscrew the old broker piece and expose some nice threads to attach a new extension piece.

    Seems as though NOTHING is ever ideal in plumbing.

    The piece extending into the wall seems NOT to have any threads on it.
    It is inserted about 3 or 4 inches deep into the wall pipe and has a greyish soder holding it in place.
    When I tried loosening it by turing It shred apart, leaving me with the 4 inches of inserted remaining pipe.

    I guess I have these questions...

    What is the greyish soder holding the chrome pipe in?
    (plumers cement?)

    What are my possible fixes?

    What are my possible shortcuts?
    What might be the proper way to fix it?

    Like I said, I am trying to fix it for a sale, but really would like to do it as best I could.

    Is there a tapered extension tube that I could slide in until it gets wedged and then fix it in place?
    How could I fix it in place? Solder(like copper pipes???)
    A certain cement?


    Should I try heating the solder/cement again and try pulling the inserted piece out? Any suggestions on pulling it out of the wall pipe?
    I can see the end of the inside pipe, Would creating a hook type tool help?

    Could I use a hacksaw blade and slice the 4 inch inserted section ?
    Does anyone recommend saing at pipes inside walls?(doesnt sound too good to me- but I am trying to brainstorm)

    Sorry- no pictures...
    I know they help...
    If I get really stuck I will have to get some.

  2. #2
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    Really we need pictures

  3. #3
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking your best path is a 1 1/4 fernco fitting

    you have to make a decision on how you want to
    fix this problem....


    The easy way .....is to go get a 1 1/4 fernco fitting
    and simply clamp it onto the pipe comming out of the
    wall and attach the new trap into the other end

    Put a excuption plate over it to hide most of that clamp
    and you are done... turn the hose clamps to where they cannot be seen from normal view...

    I have done it this way dozens and dozens
    of times with no complaints..
    in some fairley nice homes too
    you can even paint the fernco if you so wish...
    very simple and very easy....


    the HARD other way
    is you are going to have to get into the wall and basically tear out that solder bushing and get
    back down to the 1 1/2 threads ..this could mean knocking out some tiles to get to that
    bushing



    ...then install a 1 1/2 pvc male adaptor and bring it back out in pvc..

    ....usually this involves getting a sawzall and a steel cutting blade and cutting a few slices into that solder bushing so you can bang it out with a hammer and cold chisel..

    this is manly fun that I try to avoid as much as possible





    DO NOT ATTEMPT to re-solder that bushing in that old wall
    or you might set your freinds house on fire....

    that would be very-- very bad....
    especially since they have the place sold..


    I go with the fernco fitting myself

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member ThePhanatic's Avatar
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    Default Pictures

    OK- I drove 30 minutes back and forth to get the images...
    Hopefully they help.<P>
    FULL VIEW


    SOME CLOSER SHOTS<br>

    <P><br><P>
    <P><P>
    This is one of the better shots at the solder/cement?
    <P>
    Last edited by ThePhanatic; 08-29-2008 at 08:35 PM.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member ThePhanatic's Avatar
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    Here is what was connected to it...
    <br><P>

    It almost appears as it is smooth inside this U trap connector as well(no threads)
    <P>
    And this is the nut that was attaching it to the old pipe in the wall....<br>

    What do you guys think???

  6. #6
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Thats not going to be an easy one...
    I'm thinking though...
    what might be the best way to send you after this one...

    You have to open up that hole just to use a fernco like Mark was talking...
    Last edited by Redwood; 08-29-2008 at 08:49 PM.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member ThePhanatic's Avatar
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    What type joint was it?
    brass pipe with chrome plating soldered to the galvanized wall pipe?
    Generally the soder i use on copper fittings doesnt look like that- is there another type of soder?

    I am gonna give a hammer/screwdriver/chisel a shot to see if I can pry the inserted pipe away from the wall pipe.

    If that does work without damaging the wall pipe, should I then re-insert a 1 1/2" tail pipe into the same wall socket and soder like before?
    Is there a more professional way to do it?
    If there are threads- its a no brainer I will have no issues.
    I will be able to place an extension pipe threaded into it.

    So I guess we will see where the hammer gets me...
    I will be trying this tomorrow early so any suggestions tonight will be appreciated.

  8. #8
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking you are into it deep

    you ar eloooking at the solder bushing already...


    their is nothing left to grab onto..

    That is the solder bushing in the pic,

    so you are going to have to slice that solder bushing out
    with either a small hack saw or a sawzall..it will fal out of the joint
    oce you cut the brass down to the steel pipe.....

    you will end up with 1 1/2 female threads when its all over..

    then I would go get a 1 1/2 short galvanized nipple
    and thread that back into the joint...

    then you put your PVC 1 1/2 trap into the galvanized nipple and tighten it alll down...

  9. #9
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default pipe

    First you have to remove the rest of the trap tubing from the solder bushing without burning the house down. Then you have to cut the solder bushing out of the elbow without damaging the elbow's thread. Then you need a galvanized nipple and a trap adapter. Once all that is done you can connect the new trap. The easiest and safest way to do the above is to call a plumber.

  10. #10
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    That was kind of what I was thinking...

  11. #11
    Master Plumber nhmaster's Avatar
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    Gotta agree. This is the kind of project that can (already has actually) turn ugly real fast.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    From a plumbers point of view, those are some scary pictures.

    I'm glad it's not one of my jobs.
    I would have been tempted to access the back wall and replace the tee in the wall.

  13. #13
    In the Trades Master Plumber 101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    From a plumbers point of view, those are some scary pictures.

    I'm glad it's not one of my jobs.
    I would have been tempted to access the back wall and replace the tee in the wall.
    Terry, just curious as to why you would open behind the tee vs making a clean opening in the cabinet. There appears to be plenty of space in the vanity. My opinion is to try to slice the tubular fitting threads from the tee, the only problem is if the threads are not in the best of shape you'll need a 1/1/4 or 1/1/2 tap to clean up the threads.

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    Union Made

  14. #14
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    why you would open behind the tee vs making a clean opening in the cabinet. There appears to be plenty of space in the vanity.


    No good reason.
    You're right, with the cabinet there it wouldn't matter.
    I was looking too quickly at the tile on the wall.
    My mind tells me it's an exposed wall.
    But it's not darn it. Just cut the wall there if you need to.
    With the cabinet, who would even know?
    Last edited by Terry; 08-30-2008 at 01:04 PM.

  15. #15
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default bushing

    One thing about those bushings is that the thread is ALWAYS in good shape once you carefully remove the bushing.

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