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Thread: electrical plan for Kitchen remodel

  1. #16
    IT Consultant / Network Engineer beekerc's Avatar
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    Default working with wire

    Quote Originally Posted by Livin4Real View Post
    Btw, 12-2 is a pain in the ass
    tell me about it, not my favorite either. but for real fun, i ran 30A, 10-2 wire for my server closet (because the UPS I want has an L5-30P plug). oy vey!

  2. #17
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    Quick question?

    If a circuit only needs 12/2 wire, is it okay to run 12/3 and leave the red disconnected and wire nutted at the outlet and in the panel.

    The reasoning is to have more options in the future or if one wire is bad after everything is done, you have a spare wire to work with. Is there any code violation against this?
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
    Quick question?

    If a circuit only needs 12/2 wire, is it okay to run 12/3 and leave the red disconnected and wire nutted at the outlet and in the panel.

    The reasoning is to have more options in the future or if one wire is bad after everything is done, you have a spare wire to work with. Is there any code violation against this?

    No, as long as the wires are marked for future use and terminated properly.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  4. #19
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    I ask the question because if someone is rewiring their entire house, it probably makes sense to run all 12/3 instead of 12/2 because it is the same amount of work and only costs a little more money. If there ever is a problem in the future with one of the wires(drywaller screws through one by accident or whatever) you have a spare without the need to fish through. Or if someone swaps a ceiling fan for a light fixture and they want to control the fan and light with 2 different switches, the wires are there.
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

  5. #20

    Default

    For an entire house, the cost would be much higher than you think. In addition, you will have to preplan the box sizes in order to stay compliant with conductor fill for the additional wires.

    Also, if the jacket of NM cable is puncture severely enough to cause one of the wires to break then the whole thing needs to be replaced or a junction box if it is an accessible area.

    I am all for running 14/3 to fixtures from switches as long as you also preplan by installing ceiling fan rated boxes just in case.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member Fubar411's Avatar
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    St Louis, MO
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    Buy 12/3 for the countertop circuits, use a ganged 20amp breaker. For the dishwasher/waste disposal, run a 20amp circuit, but break the tab between the two receptacles. Have one receptacle switched for the waste disposal.

    Consider running 6/4g for the range, electric is nice for the oven. Run a separate 20amp for the range hood/microwave. You're on your own for lighting, but I'm hoping to try out the Cree CR6 LED cans soon.

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