(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 27

Thread: DWV Layout

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default DWV Layout

    Another homeowner doing a remodel and looking for advice. I've done the DWV for relocating the washer and adding a utility sink in the basement and a fresh layout for the bathroom.

    Everything is done in 2" except the toilet and the vent which are 3". The main drain portion is 4". Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

    I'm hoping everything is pretty good. My biggest concern is the venting for the shower.

    I'll let pictures tell the story. Nothing is glued up yet and I haven't tapped into the existing system.

    Pic 1: Bathroom connections. Sink on the left, toilet in the center and the vent from the basement coming up on the right.

    Pic 2: This shows the connections in the basement. Left is the bathroom sink (with future expansion to kitchen sink), center is the toilet, and right is the vent.

    Pic 3: This barely shows the shower - you can see the bottom of the P-trap in the top of the picture. The top horizontal pipe is the vent. The 3" line is the existing bathroom and the 2" line will be for the washer/utility sink.

    Pic 4: Washer and utility sink - as seen before on this forum.

    Pic 5: This is the top of the 4" drain. You can see the 3" line for the toilet. Top left is the bathroom sink, top right is the shower and the very top is the vent for the shower. This ties into the vent for the washer/utility sink.

    Thanks for any help.

    Tom
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  2. #2
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    I don't know about the shower because I can't see it, most of what I see looks decent...

    Possible problems... Under some codes 1 full size vent through the roof is required. That would be 4"

    Definite problems... You say none of this is cemented? All of your work is going to plug deeper into the hubs when you cement so all of your pipes will end up being way short! Dry fitting never gets good results!

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks for the quick reply. I've attached a picture of the shower.

    I thought about going 4" for the vent, but didn't. I do have two 3" and will add a two inch later. I realize that doesn't make it 4" though.

    I figured I'd have to redo some of the pipe lengths during gluing. Since I'm a flunky at this, I wanted to make sure I got everything right before I glued.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Okay the shower as it is configured is not vented!

  5. #5
    Plumber Winslow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    450

    Default

    Looks like the vent is tied in below floor level, it needs to tie in 6" above the flood rim of the fixtures it serves.

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,605

    Default dwv

    The shower has an "S" trap and is not vented. The cross fitting in picture #5 and the elbow above it would not pass inspection here. If a plumber were to redo the system he might have enough extra fittings to do another job.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    OK, off to do a little more research. The shower was my concern. Looks like it has to be on it's own vent until it get six inches above the water line.

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    The cross fitting in picture #5 and the elbow above it would not pass inspection here.
    By cross fitting, do you mean the fitting that sits on top and has the two drains in the side and the vent out the top?

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    If a plumber were to redo the system he might have enough extra fittings to do another job.
    Yeah, wait until you see my redo. I'm working in a tight place with a lot of obstacles. My choices of direction are limited. At this point, I'm not even sure how I'm going to get the shower vent up on its own.

    Thanks for all the comments. Any suggestions or links on how to do the shower pan would be appreciated.

    Tom

  8. #8
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Looks like there is plenty of room to me!

    A diagram of everything all together would be a great help!
    Looking at a series of indivual pictures it is hard to see the big picture.

    Here is your shower pan link... http://www.johnbridge.com/

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    Looks like there is plenty of room to me!
    Yeah - I'll make it work. My new plan is to run the shower drain straight down the joist bay to the wall. From that point I'll bring the drain down and the vent up. According to my reading, I have up to 42" before I have to tie in the vent. This should put it at about 36". The drain will have to make a 180 degree turn and go back to the 4" pipe (yeah - more fittings). The vent will go up into the bathroom to just below the window, go left and tie in with the other vent. I think that will handle the shower.

    Not sure yet how to tie the bathroom sink drain and shower drain back into the 4" pipe. I'll have to give it more thought. I'm thinking a 2" to 4" adapter and tying everything into that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    A diagram of everything all together would be a great help!
    Looking at a series of indivual pictures it is hard to see the big picture.
    Do you mean a 3D layout of the system? My 3D skills are lacking but I'll see if I can find some software that will do it.

    Thanks again to everyone.

    Tom
    Last edited by tombat; 07-27-2008 at 09:03 PM.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Played around with the pictures a little. Hopefully this will give a little better idea what is going on.

    Tom
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #11
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Your picture playing works!
    Sketches don't need to be fancy 3-d models...
    Just a simple drawing showing the big picture works.

    I notice how you are doing the laundry tie in now. I would suggest a full size 4" cleanout installed there so if the mail line ever needs cleaning the plumber has a straight shot out.

    What are you doing with the vent mess on the top of the 4"? Have you checked to see if a full size vent is required?

    Also, at the base of the 4" where it goes out the wall that should be a wye & 45, or a combo. However, you sure see a lot of them done just like you have and they work.
    Last edited by Redwood; 07-28-2008 at 05:27 AM.

  12. #12
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,605

    Default dwv

    I have up to 42" before I have to tie in the vent. This should put it at about 36".

    Correction that will put it at 42", unless the shower "overflow" point is 6" below the floor. You also do not need that additional vent for the washer. The lavatory or sink will act as its vent. Still a lot of extra fittings.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks for the help - I think. Looks like I'll be re-working everything. But that's OK. I want it to be correct and I'm only looking at the price of materials and my time. I debated a long time over whether to go 3" or 4" to the roof. Looks like I made the wrong decision.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    I notice how you are doing the laundry tie in now. I would suggest a full size 4" cleanout installed there so if the mail line ever needs cleaning the plumber has a straight shot out.
    OK, are you suggesting I run the 4 past the laundry tie in or put a cleanout at the end of the 4 horizontal run? If you look closely (I know, difficult with pictures) but where I plan to tie in the 2 from the laundry/sink used to be a cleanout. I planned on bringing the drains into the stubbed out two inch on the horizontal 4 but that put the sink too high.

    So, if I put a 4 to 2" wye there with a cleanout, I should be able to keep the utility sink at a reasonable height. Also, if you notice the 4 pipe is at an angle that runs it right into the south wall. Should I turn the pipe so the cleanout is perpendicular to the south wall this leaves about a 120 degree turn. If I leave the cleanout parallel to the wall, it will only give about 3 feet of access in front.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    What are you doing with the vent mess on the top of the 4"? Have you checked to see if a full size vent is required?
    Im going to punt that mess and go with a do-over. Im going to assume a full size vent is required and just go with it. Not sure how Ill make it fit up the wall (2x6 minus rim joist = 4 inches) but Ill find a way. The 4 pipe will follow the path of the current 3 which will put the toilet on a 4 drain.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
    Also, at the base of the 4" where it goes out the wall that should be a wye & 45, or a combo. However, you sure see a lot of them done just like you have and they work.
    Yeah, looks like its going to be a complete do-over. The sanitary Tee actually is a problem the way you see it today. When I opened that pipe up to change the cleanout to a 2 adaptor, there was a backflow buildup in the pipe. It was about 1/3 full of waste after only 4 months usage. I figured having the washer on the line would eliminate the problem but I guess its better to just do it right.

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by tombat View Post
    I have up to 42" before I have to tie in the vent. This should put it at about 36".
    Correction that will put it at 42", unless the shower "overflow" point is 6" below the floor. You also do not need that additional vent for the washer. The lavatory or sink will act as its vent. Still a lot of extra fittings.
    Well, if you are going to measure like that...
    Actually, its 36 from the drain to the wall. Add a couple inches to get into the stud bay, a couple inches to get to floor level, an inch or so to shower floor, and then six inches from there and it adds up to a different route.

    Here is the picture with some initial changes. Still working on getting the shower plan together. I'm thinking about going up a different wall and doing another roof penetration for 2". I'd tie the washer in to that vent if I go that route.

    Thanks again for the input.
    Tom
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  14. #14
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Layout - Rev A

    Hopefully this is a little better. Rather than write a story, I'll let the pictures do the talking.

    Questions/Comments?

    Thanks for any input

    Tom
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  15. #15
    DIY Junior Member tombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Nobody has any comments?

    Guess I'll move on.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •