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Thread: plan to cut the copper pipe

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member v1rtu0s1ty's Avatar
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    Default plan to cut the copper pipe

    Hi folks,

    Instead of hiring someone to install a second meter, I'm planning to just cut the copper pipe going to the outside spigot. It's 3/4" pipe then becomes 1/2" then to the spigot. Or maybe, I'll use a 1" copper pipe instead of 3/4" like what I said on the drawing.

    Below is the picture of what I will be cutting. Can someone please make some comment about my drawing like if something is missing or it's totally wrong?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.




  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default pipe

    Your drawing looks almost correct. The BFP MUST be located at least 12" above the highest irrigation head. Now all you have to do is execute your installation the way you drew it.

  3. #3
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    We don't know how long that 1/2" pipe is. Replacing it with 3/4 or even 1" will help, but not necessarily by a huge amount. You might consider going as far back towards the main cut off as you can, and run dedicated 1" to that bibb.

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member v1rtu0s1ty's Avatar
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    Default

    Awesome guys!!!

    The total lenght of the 3/4" and 1/2" is about 25 feet. And yes, they connect from a tee 1" x 3/4". I like your idea about changing the 3/4" and 1/2" with 1" pipe. However, I'm so scared to remove the tee. Or should I leave the tee, then leave like 3" of the 3/4" then put a coupling that changes 3/4" back to 1"?

    Also about the BFP, I wasn't aware that it should be at least 12" high. Thanks for that tip. Since I am in Chicago, is it ok to leave the BFP outside during winter? And normally, do they cost like $20, $50 or $100? Any tips on what I should get?

    I feel more comfortable now.

    Thanks guys!

  5. #5
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    You want to use that outdoor sillcock to blow out the system with compressed air for the winter. I would highly recommend that you engage the services of a irrigation contractor for this. They do not charge all that much for the service and basically all they do is spend a few days in the fall driving around with a large rental compressor behind their truck making the rounds blowing out the systems.

    It will prevent costly damage to the system.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I would recommend the hose bib should have an anti siphon feature and be frost free. You will need cutoff valves to isolate the outside pipes and BFP. As far a the BFP itself, there are types that are installed below ground level. They should be in a plastic control box, and they will cost more than the above ground style that has to be above the highest sprinkler.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member v1rtu0s1ty's Avatar
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    Default

    Here are the new updates. By the way, I'm sorry, it's my first to hear outdoor sillcock. What is it? Picture please.







    I used Photoshop to show what I would like to do based from the recommendation above. So can I do it that way? Will GPM be affected? That means, from tee, there will be a short 3/4" pipe maybe 2 or 3 inches long, then all the way to the cutoff valve and BFP outside of the house, it will be 1".

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member v1rtu0s1ty's Avatar
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    Anyone please will it affect or should it be fine?

    EDIT: Won't do that route anymore. It will affect pgm.
    Last edited by v1rtu0s1ty; 07-26-2008 at 07:51 AM.

  9. #9
    DIY Member msgale's Avatar
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    Default 3/4 reduced area will affect flow rate, but only a small amount

    what you need to know is the total gallons per minute that your system will need at the zone with the highest flow.

    Gallons per minute can be converted into the pressure loss at how many feet of pipe at whatever diameter,.
    you can get by w even 1/2 inch pipe, if you had to ( which you don't) if you're willling to make sure your zones are very small.

    how big an area are you irrigating, per zone?


    Sillcock: a normal outdoor faucet will freeze, bursting the pipe in winter.
    An "outdoor sillcock" is designed to empty all the water that is on the outside of the wall, only having water on the indoor( heated) area, so it can't freeze

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