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Thread: Advice on replacing clay waste line

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Advice on replacing clay waste line

    Can't get plumbers to call back with estimates, and I need to get concrete down soon to give it time to cure while I'm on hoiiday. So I'm on to the next project, replacing clay waste line (which started out as: move drain lines in basement to make room for footings for new beam).

    I'd appreciate any advice on some aspects of this:
    1. Concrete base: The inspector (who is economical with words and hard to get ahold of) mentioned setting the pipe in concrete. Is this SOP? Since all concrete is supposed to be 2" thick, I don't see what good this does. Perhaps he is referring to the part where the CI stack gets some of its support from the waste line? But I can't imagine a PVC waste line faring very well in a sandwich between concrete and a CI stack.
    2. Stack: I plan to support the CI stack with riser clamps in the attic and first and second floors. When I tighten these, should I worry about over-tightening and cracking the CI? I tightened until I heard a groan, but under-tightening obviously has its down side. BTW this whole project started because the framing is under-supported, so I will have to do what I can with temporary support, but can't do much with half the laundry room floor dug up.
    3. Sand fill: I presume I refill the trench with the waste line with sand. Tamping is out of the question, I couldn't lift one of those things in, and the fumes from the motor would fill the house. Are there lighter weight alternatives? Keep the trench filled with water for a few days? Fill it up with concrete? The ground is clay with some rocks. I plan to tile (eventually). I will put rebar anchors into the 2" concrete to key the new and old concrete together (well, I'll try).
    4. Under support: The trickiest part of this is that the waste line goes almost under a 4x4, one of two holding the kitchen over the laundry room. No footing! I've done everything I can to spread the load elsewhere, but I will be digging at least some of the waste pipe out of a tunnel under the 4x4 plate and 2" of concrete. Does this seem feasible? Again, not ideal, but I don't see an alternative.
    5. Water test: The house plumbing needs to be brought back on line ASAP after replacing the waste line. Can I do a water test for the inspector after the system has been operational for a few days? Obviously I'd do my own water test before going back on line.


    Thanks for any help. Doing this out of necessity, not out of choice.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default project

    1. Concrete base: The inspector (who is economical with words and hard to get ahold of) mentioned setting the pipe in concrete. Is this SOP? Since all concrete is supposed to be 2" thick, I don't see what good this does The pipe does not get enclosed in concrete, and the floor should be 4" thick, not 2".
    2. Stack: I plan to support the CI stack with riser clamps in the attic and first and second floors. When I tighten these, should I worry about over-tightening and cracking the CI? I tightened until I heard a groan, but under-tightening obviously has its down side. If this is the old cast iron, you shouldn't need any riser clamps, but if you do use them DO NOT overtighten because they can crack older cast iron pipes.
    3. Sand fill: Good idea. Water settling or a hand tamper will workl
    4. Water test: The house plumbing needs to be brought back on line ASAP after replacing the waste line. Can I do a water test for the inspector after the system has been operational for a few days? Obviously I'd do my own water test before going back on line. VERY VERY, (in fact almost impossible), difficult to do a proper water test once everything is connected.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    ....the floor should be 4" thick, not 2".
    Yes I will make my surface 4", but the existing basement floor is 2". I can't understand how a 4x4 support post without footing has survived on that basis, but it has for 80 years. Though it does appear the basement floor sagged in that vicinity, taking the rest of the house with it....
    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    Sand fill: Good idea. Water settling or a hand tamper will workl
    Thanks, a hand tamper I have! I will try both water and hand tamper.

    Thanks for your comments, they are very helpful.

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default yes

    I can't understand how a 4x4 support post without footing has survived on that basis, but it has for 80 years. Though it does appear the basement floor sagged in that vicinity, taking the rest of the house with it....

    I guess that answers your question. It did not survive and that is why the house sagged.

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default DWV Plan

    Here is my DWV plan FWIW. The scan cut some things off, that is kitchen waste line in upper left, laundry sink in middle left. There is a toilet in middle right. Items that are not routine:

    1. I'd like to expand my kitchen waste pipe from 1-1/2" to 2" as it comes into the laundry room, since the current pipe is all blocked up with garbage disposer waste.

    2. The (moved) laundry sink and (new) washing machine standpipe will share a 1-1/2" vent stack. Their two vent stacks (A and B) are joined in a tee just before going up into a stud bay in the room above.

    3. Right now it looks like the CI stack terminates in a 4" wye with a cleanout. Presumably another wye under concrete where it connects to the clay waste line. I see several ways of attaching new PVC waste line to the stack:
    a. If the stack has some CI connecting the two wyes at the bottom, perhaps I can get a no-hub coupling in there at the bottom (preferred option).
    b. Otherwise I guess I will have to get a donut into the outlet hub of the CI wye? I'd prefer to put in lead okum honestly (with mapp gas?), except I can't imagine lead flowing up.
    c. A third option is to cut the stack above the wye, and no-hub coupling to everything PVC below.

    Any comments or reality checks are appreciated.
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  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Duh

    The trap on the standpipe should obviously be 2".

    Anyway it's the stack and how to connect to it that I'm most concerned about.....

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    I have a question on the water test. Since I'm only changing the waste lines in the basement, is it okay to hook up upstairs drain lines, and just make sure during the water test that the water level stays in the basement? Staying in a hotel while waiting for inspection (will be) an expensive option.

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Pipe cutter stuck (urgent)

    I've got the pipe cutter wrapped around the 4" waste line, have tightened as far as possible....now I can't get the handle to go any further. HELP! Is this to be expected, or could there be issues?

    I did some practice cuts on 2" clay pipe, not a problem, so this is a real surprise.....it's the Ridgid 226 soil pipe cutter......I can try whacking with a mallet but I'm nervous about cracking the part of the pipe I want to leave.....tried with a sawzall earlier but my arm was quickly getting tired and progress was real slow......

    I removed most of the exterior of this pipe (what is that stuff?) before cutting, a little on the bottom that I couldn't get to.....didn't do that on the 2" pipe and the cutting went swimmingly.....

  9. #9
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    Don't whack it!

    Turn it to release it then tighten up the chain a link or 2!

    There are marks on the side that show where it should be for a starting point for different size pipes. This needs to be set before each cut or you will run out of screw! These marks on the forks are approximate starting points!

    Don't feel dumb! Been there done that!
    I just feel dumb when I keep doing it! AAAAARRRRRGGGGG! Not again!
    Last edited by Redwood; 07-28-2008 at 08:58 AM.

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Stuck!

    Can't get the handle to go counter-clockwise.

    Owner's manual says that, if this happens with 206 or 246, just switch it to open, adjust, try again.

    Nothing about this for the 226.

    I sure hope I don't have to sawzall out the pipe to get this thing off.

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Unbelievable

    Called Ridgid customer assistance and they did think the thread got chipped, the only reason it won't open.....suggest a pipe wrench to try to apply more force.....I don't believe this is happening.....

  12. #12
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    I have the 228 myself so I don't know much about yours.
    Might try PB Blaster on the threads and a small pipe over the ratchet handle to loosen it!

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Thank You, Redwood!

    Luckily I had to take out some of my steam pipes as part of this project, so I grabbed a 4' piece of black pipe and it did the job....slivers of metal coming off the screw as it unwound....time for a new pipe cutter, or maybe time to try the angle grinder.....

  14. #14
    DIY Senior Member Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Ex-waste pipe

    Pipe would not score on top....took off the pipe cutter to see what the problem was.....the bottom of the pipe has disintegrated.....I mean into a million little pieces......think I have enough to cut back to for a Fernco.....it also appears that my waste line out to the street is CI (based on the piece that I have (barely) left).

    This is much more "exciting" than I expected.....

  15. #15
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Looks like your not going to get a good snap on that one!
    Time for some slow cutting!
    You should be able to get replacement parts for the snapper from ridgid.

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