Pressure Switch Trips Pump Delays

My pressure switch control is set for 40psi cutin/60psi cut out.
When water pressure drops below 38-40psi, the relay closes, but there seems to be a 3-5 second delay before I can feel the pump pushing water through the supply pipe (black plastic tubing). The pressure gage almost drops to zero before I can feel the vibration of the pump/ water flow kicking in. This results in total loss of water pressure at the tap or shower head for about the same 3-5 seconds pump delay. This seems to happen several times per day. Usually within minutes of turning on a tap or running washing machines or showers.
Could a defective or leaky check valve cause this? I already replaced the pressure switch control/set it per mfg. instructions, tested the tank bladder, tank & as much plumbing integrity as I could access. No obvious leaks. Although some air could be getting into the system through worn faucet valve seats or gaskets.

The sequence of system components from well to tap is: well pump,
check valve, pressure gage, pressure relief valve, pressure switch control/pressure tank, water conditioner, cold line/water heater/hot line.


Deep Well submersible pump
Gould Pump Model#76507422/Franklin Electric Motor Model#245079004

Water Well
Well Depth= 200'
Static Water Level=93'
Yield Rate= 33
Pump Depth=189'

Pressure Switch Control
Square D Pumptrol #9013F

Pressure Tank
WellTrol WX-203

Water Conditioner/neutralizer
Culligan Automatic Water Conditioner

popj said:

Although some air could be getting into the system through worn faucet valve seats or gaskets.

Click to expand...

Does this mean you have air blowing out when you open a faucet?

Remove the Check Valve in the feed line.

bob...

popj said:

My pressure switch control is set for 40psi cutin/60psi cut out.
When water pressure drops below 38-40psi, the relay closes, but there seems to be a 3-5 second delay before I can feel the pump pushing water through the supply pipe (black plastic tubing). The pressure gage almost drops to zero before I can feel the vibration of the pump/ water flow kicking in.

Click to expand...

Tighten the nut on the tall screw in the pressure switch about two full turns. IMO your tank is emptying before the pump comes on. That can be caused by errors in the air pressure gauge and the water pressure gauge. The air pressure with no water in the pressure tank should be 39-38 psi and the pump switch should be set at 40-42 psi and off at 60 psi.

valveman-

Usually no air blowing out when I open the faucet. Water comes out at normal pressure. Water runs between 1-10 minutes, then water pressure dies down in less than 1-2 seconds, then completely stops- no flow, no pressure, nothing. Then, between 3-10 seconds (depending on which faucet(s) are open) full pressure returns & everything seems fine.

speedbump (Bob)-

Does that mean remove the check valve forever or just to see what effect that has on the problem? I've heard good & bad about using check valves, plus I'm wondering if where the checkvalve as installed is the best location (i.e. would between pressure tank & water conditioner be better?

Gary-

Your settings are what I used before starting this thread. I used both the CH pressure gage on the compressor I used to charge the pressure tank + cross checked it w/ a brand new digital gage which tested accurate before check the pressure tank psi. I can clearly hear (& see if I remove the Square-D cover) the relay snap open or shut in the Square-D pressure control switch, dead-on to psi settings for cut-out/cut in, respectively.

valveman-

I only mentioned air maybe getting in because I was wondering that might have any thing to do with the problem, if enough is getting in. I'm not sure if much or any air is getting in at all at this point, but I know I have 1 or 2 barely leaking faucet valves. House is a 2 story colonial, built in 1989-90. 1st floor powder room faucet has very slight leak from base. All faucets & shower/tub valves are regular basic Deltas.

I would remove it permanently. They are not needed with a Submersible Pump and only mask other problems that occur in the well or the pipe leading from the Well to the House.

I challenge anyone (Engineers Included) to give me one good reason for a Check Valve on a system with a Submersible Pump with a Bladder Tank.

bob...

popj said:

Gary-

Your settings are what I used before starting this thread. I used both the CH pressure gage on the compressor I used to charge the pressure tank + cross checked it w/ a brand new digital gage which tested accurate before check the pressure tank psi. I can clearly hear (& see if I remove the Square-D cover) the relay snap open or shut in the Square-D pressure control switch, dead-on to psi settings for cut-out/cut in, respectively.

Click to expand...

So what did you use to check the accuracy of the water pressure gauge?
Turn the tall screw's nut clockwise (tighten it) 1-2 full turns and humor me to see what happens.

OR not but then tell me what you think is causing your 3-5 seconds of reduced pressure before the pump comes on.

Gary-

Rotated the range screw 2 full turns. Result: Cut in/out range now 45-65 (+5 psi from previous set); system water pressure seems constant throughout system- no more pressure drop outs. Problem solved !!!?

Running +5 psi is improvement too, unless I'm shortening service life of almost 20yr. old oem copper tubing. 1st 3 yrs. ('89-'93), system not neutralized (soft / acid water). After that, installed the automatic neutralizer.

You're absolutely right about pressure gage accuracy- It's never been checked. Cost effective suggestions to do that are most welcome. I'm hoping the gage reads high (i.e. current range is where it should be--even though I think it's a hair higher than system design?

Would you back down range to find 'sweet spot' or just be happy & pay the plumber when the pipes go (sooner than later?)?

Anyway, 'you the man' Gary! Thanks a 'bunch! (PS- My wife is quite happy about higher pressure- i.e. showers etc. as am I.

Speedbump-

I'm w/ you on the check valve. After I'm done tweaking the square-D settings, the check valve will go next. Any idea why they get put in my type of well water system?

No, I really don't know why anyone would install one. But people do it all the time. Might be on advice from some Big Box store employee.

bob...