Do I need to raise my closet flange ?

I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel. The floorboard supporting the closet flange needed to be replaced because of a prior leak. I told my plumber that the new flange will need to accommodate the height of the CBU and tile I will be installing.

He finished replacing the floorboard and flange. Soon, I will be installing the tile (either porcelain or slate.) So, I checked his work and realized that he mounted the flange directly to the floorboard. The flange has already been bonded to the drain pipe. Also, I noticed that the flange is now 13" from the wall (it was 12.5" before.)

I reminded him that the floor will be thick (probably about 1".) He said no problem, that he was planning to install one or more flange extenders.

Well, this seems less than optimum to me, esp considering that the reason the floor needs replacing was because the toilet was leaking in the past.

So, I am considering replacing the flange again myself, and this time not trimming the vertical part of the drain until after the floor is installed. That way I can trim it so that the flange is on top of the finished floor. Also, I can adjust the flage to be 12" from the wall.

There is a lined crawlspace below the home. The drain is 4" ABS. I am using a Toto Carlyle with the standard 12" rough-in. I will need to buy the 90, the flange, and add a few couplers. I still have some drain pipe that I can use. I may need to adjust the blocking he intalled to support the drain pipe.

My concerns are:
1) Is it worth is for me to mess with this, or should I be content with a couple of 1/2" flange extenders?

2) If I use slate on the floor, then the surface might be uneven. That will complicate the leveling process. If I decide to use uneven slate, then is it still worth it to re-install the flange on top of the finished floor?

Thx, Tom

flange

The best installation would be to have the flange on top of the floor, rather than depend on the integity of flange extenders or double wax rings for a seal. The distance from the wall is not adustable with the flange. That is determined by how the pipe under the floor was installed. The roughness of the floor does not determine how the flange should be installed, but it does determine how much shimming is required to make it level and steady.

There is a lined crawlspace below the home. The drain is 1.5" ABS. I am using a Toto Carlyle with the standard 12" rough-in

The drain is 1.5" ABS? The min. size for a toilet drain is 3". 13" from the wall isnt a big deal at all...I wouldnt worry about that. Though I've used flange extensions in the past and probably will in the future, it is definitely a better idea to install the flange correctly on top of the finished floor to begin with.

HJ,

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, I was considering moving the drain pipe under the floor a bit to adjust the distance from the wall (assuming I re-install the flange.) That's why I probably would need to mess with the blocking under the house.

Regarding the shimming, what is the best material to use for that? Rubber, plastic, wood, or ? And how to bond the shim material to the floor?

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RioHyde,

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, my bad; the drain pipe is 4" ABS (corrected in origainl post.) About the 13", I will check the blocking and not mess with that unless it is easy. I would also need to cut a new floor insert.

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Related question: Regarding the flange mounting screws as well as the other mounting screws for the unifit rough-in: Is it better to use screws that go clear through to the wood flooring, or use anchors in the slate/CBU? Also, if mounting to the wood is better, then is it better to cut notches in the slate/CBU before it is installed, or drill the slate/CBU after installation?

T

Slate is usually fairly soft, so you could do it either way (notch the tile or drill through it). I'd use screws long enough to go through the floor (brass or stainless steel). My unprofessional opinion.