Toilet install

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Titan7

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Ok, I don't know why I get so scared of installing toilets but I do. I just put in a toto drake yesterday all seems well. I used the std fluidmaster wax ring without the horn had always used the one with the horn but read here that the rings with horns can cause issues?? My flange is 1/16" below the finished floor, so basically level. I put the wax ring on the top of the flange and then set the toilet down pressing down, I had to do a TINY twist 1/8" to get it strait, I mean tiny.

I filled it up, no leaks, I tightened the bowl nuts by hand then just slightly more to stop movement. So why do I feel so paranoid about leaking? I have not caulked the bowl yet and did slide some brown paper strips under the bowl near the wax ring to check for leaks.

Should I have used the wax ring with the horn?? I guess I can pull it off and do it again?
 

Jadnashua

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Could you feel the wax compress, or did it just sit straight down? The wax must compress to make a good seal. By having the flange below floor level rather than on top of it, you might want to use a thicker wax seal. But, if you could feel some resistance as the wax was smushed, you should be okay.

The horns sometimes warp if things aren't nice and straight, so they can be more trouble than they are worth. The outlet of the toilet is smaller than the drain line, so normally, the waste just falls down the drain and would not leak. If the seal is not good, it could leak if there was a backup (the pipe got full), and sewer gasses could leak out anytime.

If you remove the toilet, you should replace the wax ring, and I'd use a thicker one if I did reset it, but depending on how it went on, you may not have to.
 

Titan7

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Thanks, yes there was some resistance as I set it down. Using the std wax ring I had just over 1/2" of wax sticking out beyond the toilet bottom, I tested that by putting the ring on over the toilet hole on the bottom and measuring how much stuck out beyond the bottom edge of the bowl.

The flange on the floor is literally 1/16" lower than the floor so basically it's flat and there was 1/2" of wax that had to be compressed. when I seated the toilet. The extra thick wax ring would have left 1" of wax to compress, I thought that was too much especially when trying to keep everything lined up on the way down. Plus I could not find the thicker rings with out the horn. Would the waxless be better?

I guess my lack of experience (only set 3 toilets) and the infrequency of doing it creates a lot of doubt. I hate the fact you can't confirm the seal is good, unless there is a problem.
 

Gary Swart

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While I understand your concern, as long as you lowered the toilet straight down onto the wax ring, you are go to go for years. That slight twisting is not a problem. One thing I believe is slightly incorrect is that the flange should set on top of the finished floor which would make the top of the flange the thickness of the flange above floor level. However, since you had 1/2" of wax to compress, you should be just fine. Enjoy your new Drake.
 

Titan7

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Thanks, I tend to overthink things. As far as setting down the toilet pushed strait down but I believe the front of the bowl touch the floor a split second before the rear due to compressing the wax. I will assume that's okay unless you guys say different.

thanks!
 

Gary Swart

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Yeah, the "straight down" I referred to was as you lowered the toilet to the wax ring is should have gone straight down and not coming in for a side. Once the horn on the toilet engages the hole in the wax ring, while you wouldn't want to suddenly make a big left or right course correction, you are now just seating the toilet into the ring. You're fine. The guys who get in trouble are those who pay no attention to procedure and just "put 'er down".
 

JeffU

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Last week I installed my first toilet (Eco Drake). I installed a wax ring with horn on to the toilet first.
The ring felt like it compressed when set on the flange. No apparent leaks or gas odor.

Do I need to install a new ring on to the flange?
 

Redwood

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Not necessarily. If the toilet has any problem with clogs or, leakage around the base I would instantly think that is the problem and replace it with one that does not have the horn.

On some flanges the horn may get pinched betwween the flange and the outlet horn of the toilet. This can lead to clogging.

IMHO they cause more problems than they ever cured!
 
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I disagree about the plain wax ring vs. one with 'funnel' or 'no-seep'. I've used the latter for close to 28 years, lots of stools, and I prefer them. For one, it directs the waste a little further straight down before it can go sideways so to speak as the 'sleeve' protrudes below the level of the wax ring. I like that especially in 4" riser pipe. If you have to stack one ring on another or 1/2 of another, the two 'funnels' will help keep them aligned with each other. Still, just personal preference.
 

Gary Swart

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IF the flange is on top of the finished floor as it should be, or even just flush with the floor, adding more wax would be not only useless, but would likely be too much. Where will the unneeded wax go? It will compress to the sides which mean at least part of the excess will go to the inside. This is one place where a little extra can hurt. If the flange is, for whatever reason, really recessed, then you have to consider a thicker ring, 2 rings, adding repair rings to raise the level, or redoing the flange completely. But, don't just pile on extra wax rings thinking it's a margin of safety, because it's not.
 

Kburkhal

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Which is the preferred method - thicker wax ring or standard wax ring w/repair ring? I just tiled my bathroom floor and there is a good 1/4" height difference between the original ring and the floor.
 
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