First of all I would like to say thank you for this forum! I finally found a place where it seems like the advice is knowledgable and considerate!
I have read some previous threads about this. I ripped out the old sheetrock on my walls around my bathtub. I had a plumber come out and plumb for a shower/bath combo.
I had mixed information from people I know, building codes, internet sites, the hardibacker site instructions and Home Depot. I followed what I thought was best and realized I made a few amateur mistakes. I am someone who follows the instructions as written and I don't have any of the common knowledge that some DIYer have.
I screwed up the 1/2" hardibacker onto all of the studs, making sure to put a screw every 6". However, in one place the stud is closer than 16" and on the other side, further than 16 ", the builders in 1978 couldn't measure I guess.... It is kind of in the middle on the far right away from the shower head. I made sure to secure it to all the studs vertically. It feels pretty secure and I am planning on screwing back up the same way after I take it down and do it right.
1. The tub flange is about 1/2" away from the studs on one side and a little less on the other. The tub appears to be in there straight, just one side has more of a gap than the other. I was told to have the hardibacker overlap the flange and when I screwed on the hardibacker it of course bowed out at the bottom.
Now I have been told to cut the hardibacker to just above the flange and have the tile overlap the flange. (rather than use furring strips all over the place with multiple layers of furring material which no one seemed to know what I should use if I did! Also, It would make the shower wall 1/2" off from the rest of the bathroom walls!)
I also saw that the moderator on this site said on a previous thread that the hardibacker could be cut at the flange and the tile extended down. I am using 6" tiles.
Is this really okay to do and how far should the tile overlap the flange? (how close should the edge of the tile be from the top of the tub? I was guessing 1/8"????
2. I did not put a moisture barrier between the hardibacker and the studs. I read on several advice forums that roofing felt may cause mildew under it next to the studs. Is this true? I also read that you don't need the polyvinyl (is that correct verbage for the plastic vapor barrier?) or any type of moisture barrier under hardibacker unless you are creating a steam shower. I am making just an ordinary shower with a shower curtain above my existing tub.
From this forum and my gut....I am thinking I have to take down the hardibacker and put up a moisture barrier, but I am not sure what product to use. I understand that you have to have the moisture barrier extend down in front of the tub flange, but what about up top next to the drywall near the ceiling? Do I tuck it in behind the drywall at the top or just cut it off at the top edge of the hardibacker?
3. I used the correct hardibacker screws, but the screws would not sink in. My friend said it is because my drill doesn't have enough torque. He said that he can screw them in with his drill and make them countersink. Is this what is going on? How far should the screws countersink? Otherwise, I think the tiles will not be able to be on there flush to the wall right?
4. After I screwed in the hardibacker next to the drywall, the drywall is not flush with the hardibacker. The people who have looked at it say the drywall is the same thickness as the hardibacker. Then why is it not flush? The drywall sticks out by about an 1/8".... I was going to put furring strips up to begin with, but then the hardibacker would probably then stick out! Home Depot didn't even know what furring strips were by the way! I read instructions that said to put up 1/4" furring strips, that would make the hardibacker above the sheetrock! Is the difference in "flushness" going to be made up for by the thickness of the mud under the tiles? My gut says no....
5. I know that once I get the moisture barrier up and screw the hardibacker in place and everything is good to go, then I will put the joint tape up with thinset.
Do I need to apply thinset in a special way over the screws? I read something about that in the threads and didn't understand exactly what that entails.
6. I am not extending the tile onto the ceiling, but plan on having it stop at the ceiling, however the hardibacker at this time stops just above the shower head. I am taking it down and putting up a moisture barrier most likely....should I cut the sheetrock to the very edge where the ceiling and wall meet and install hardi all the way up to the ceiling?
7. Last but not least...A tile question....I was told by the home depot guy to apply this type of varnish to my decorative trim, it is a tumbled stone and glass tile design. He said people usually put it on after it is put on the wall and grouted in. He said it would be easier if you put it on first and you can avoid getting the mud into the millions of tiny holes in the tumbled rock tile. Well, he put some on one of them at the store to show me and a few hours later at home, it was still wet and the adhesive that keeps the tile on the mesh had dissolved from it and the tiles were coming off and got jostled out of position. It stuck back to the mesh after it dried. I am thinking that if I put that stuff on the tile before putting it on the wall, it may make some tiles come loose after I put it on the wall....What are your thoughts? I am thinking I need to just wait until after the tile is grouted and dried set before I apply the color enhancing sealer...It is Miracle Brand Seal and Enhance.
I really want to pick back up this project and finish, but I have been kind of wary of it....I want to do it right. I haven't been able to rely on anyone for advice.
I really appreciate all of your help with this!
Thanks in advance!
I have read some previous threads about this. I ripped out the old sheetrock on my walls around my bathtub. I had a plumber come out and plumb for a shower/bath combo.
I had mixed information from people I know, building codes, internet sites, the hardibacker site instructions and Home Depot. I followed what I thought was best and realized I made a few amateur mistakes. I am someone who follows the instructions as written and I don't have any of the common knowledge that some DIYer have.
I screwed up the 1/2" hardibacker onto all of the studs, making sure to put a screw every 6". However, in one place the stud is closer than 16" and on the other side, further than 16 ", the builders in 1978 couldn't measure I guess.... It is kind of in the middle on the far right away from the shower head. I made sure to secure it to all the studs vertically. It feels pretty secure and I am planning on screwing back up the same way after I take it down and do it right.
1. The tub flange is about 1/2" away from the studs on one side and a little less on the other. The tub appears to be in there straight, just one side has more of a gap than the other. I was told to have the hardibacker overlap the flange and when I screwed on the hardibacker it of course bowed out at the bottom.
Now I have been told to cut the hardibacker to just above the flange and have the tile overlap the flange. (rather than use furring strips all over the place with multiple layers of furring material which no one seemed to know what I should use if I did! Also, It would make the shower wall 1/2" off from the rest of the bathroom walls!)
I also saw that the moderator on this site said on a previous thread that the hardibacker could be cut at the flange and the tile extended down. I am using 6" tiles.
Is this really okay to do and how far should the tile overlap the flange? (how close should the edge of the tile be from the top of the tub? I was guessing 1/8"????
2. I did not put a moisture barrier between the hardibacker and the studs. I read on several advice forums that roofing felt may cause mildew under it next to the studs. Is this true? I also read that you don't need the polyvinyl (is that correct verbage for the plastic vapor barrier?) or any type of moisture barrier under hardibacker unless you are creating a steam shower. I am making just an ordinary shower with a shower curtain above my existing tub.
From this forum and my gut....I am thinking I have to take down the hardibacker and put up a moisture barrier, but I am not sure what product to use. I understand that you have to have the moisture barrier extend down in front of the tub flange, but what about up top next to the drywall near the ceiling? Do I tuck it in behind the drywall at the top or just cut it off at the top edge of the hardibacker?
3. I used the correct hardibacker screws, but the screws would not sink in. My friend said it is because my drill doesn't have enough torque. He said that he can screw them in with his drill and make them countersink. Is this what is going on? How far should the screws countersink? Otherwise, I think the tiles will not be able to be on there flush to the wall right?
4. After I screwed in the hardibacker next to the drywall, the drywall is not flush with the hardibacker. The people who have looked at it say the drywall is the same thickness as the hardibacker. Then why is it not flush? The drywall sticks out by about an 1/8".... I was going to put furring strips up to begin with, but then the hardibacker would probably then stick out! Home Depot didn't even know what furring strips were by the way! I read instructions that said to put up 1/4" furring strips, that would make the hardibacker above the sheetrock! Is the difference in "flushness" going to be made up for by the thickness of the mud under the tiles? My gut says no....
5. I know that once I get the moisture barrier up and screw the hardibacker in place and everything is good to go, then I will put the joint tape up with thinset.
Do I need to apply thinset in a special way over the screws? I read something about that in the threads and didn't understand exactly what that entails.
6. I am not extending the tile onto the ceiling, but plan on having it stop at the ceiling, however the hardibacker at this time stops just above the shower head. I am taking it down and putting up a moisture barrier most likely....should I cut the sheetrock to the very edge where the ceiling and wall meet and install hardi all the way up to the ceiling?
7. Last but not least...A tile question....I was told by the home depot guy to apply this type of varnish to my decorative trim, it is a tumbled stone and glass tile design. He said people usually put it on after it is put on the wall and grouted in. He said it would be easier if you put it on first and you can avoid getting the mud into the millions of tiny holes in the tumbled rock tile. Well, he put some on one of them at the store to show me and a few hours later at home, it was still wet and the adhesive that keeps the tile on the mesh had dissolved from it and the tiles were coming off and got jostled out of position. It stuck back to the mesh after it dried. I am thinking that if I put that stuff on the tile before putting it on the wall, it may make some tiles come loose after I put it on the wall....What are your thoughts? I am thinking I need to just wait until after the tile is grouted and dried set before I apply the color enhancing sealer...It is Miracle Brand Seal and Enhance.
I really want to pick back up this project and finish, but I have been kind of wary of it....I want to do it right. I haven't been able to rely on anyone for advice.
I really appreciate all of your help with this!
Thanks in advance!