Sewerage/sulphur smell in house?

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DL

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Hey.

With the cold water inlet valve shut off to the water heater . How is there going to be any pressure to push the hot water out of the tank? Then I have to open the cold water inlet valve and turn all the hot water faucets, tub , etc on for 10 minutes or less to run bleach through lines, then drain water heater and fill with cold water only, then repeat draining?

Thanks
 
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Redwood

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Open the drain and use the inlet valve to apply pressure to start the flow. The drain is frequently blocked by mineral deposits and the pressure will usually clear it. Then turn off the inlet valve and open a hot tap to allow air in for gravity drainage.

Follow the instructions in the service bulletin for chlorination.
 

DL

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Hey Redwood,

I opened the pressure relief valve to vent the tank to allow the water to drain faster out of the bottom drain valve. It says after about an hour, open up the hot water going to each hot water side outlet on the faucets, tub valves, etc to let the bleached water in the tank drain out of the fixtures. With the cold water valve shut, there is no pressure to push the water out of the tank into the lines to the fixtures? So I had to open the cold water inlet into the tank to get pressure. The water heater is located in the garage on the same level, house is a single story ranch.

I did just as the posted instructions. We'll see how the house smells tomorrow when I get back home from work? Is that enough time to wait or how much time should I wait?

The R-Tech Anode I ordered is to long, it is 44 inches.The one I removed from my tank was 33 inches long. I need to send the 44 inch one back and get the right one. The site I ordeed it from said the one I ordered would fit the 33 long tank, the one I got is 44 inches? So I will have to wait about a week or two before I change out the anode. I'm going out of town this week.

Thanks
 

Redwood

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Hopefully that kills it off!
There was another post recently where the stuff was residing in one of the faucets and sink overflow...
When you find its residence and kill it the smell will be gone.
 

DL

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OK,

Smell is the same today. I did call the people I bought the anode from, they said I could cut it to fit? Is this OK to do right?

Mikey, No chlorinator installed. Do I need one even though I am on city water/sewerage? Doesn't the city water have plenty of chlorine in it to make it safe to drink?

Thanks
 
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Mikey

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Sorry, I didn't realize you had city water, but I guess I should have expected that, given that you were on a sewer. Yes, city water should be good enough out of the tap, but OTOH, if you've got a bacteria problem, those bacteria have to come from somewhere.

Should be OK to cut the new rod back to the same length as the old one. How much did Rheem want for that rod?
 

DL

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Sorry, I didn't realize you had city water, but I guess I should have expected that, given that you were on a sewer. Yes, city water should be good enough out of the tap, but OTOH, if you've got a bacteria problem, those bacteria have to come from somewhere.

Should be OK to cut the new rod back to the same length as the old one. How much did Rheem want for that rod?

I paid $31.00. I guess the next thing to do is call a home inspector or environmental inspector?
 

Redwood

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You can trim the anode.

I said this earlier...
There was another post recently where the stuff was residing in one of the faucets and sink overflow...
When you find its residence and kill it the smell will be gone.

Is there anything you can do to isolate where the smell is coming from?
It would really help!
 

DL

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Update, I know it's been a while. It turns out that the house was built wtih Chinese drywall and thats where the odor was coming from. The owner of the house tore out all the drywall and installed all new drywall, which fixed the problem with the odor. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
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