Sandpoint Well - some questions

I'm about to do a sand point well. My wife wants to build a small garden in our yard with a working pitcher pump as the center-point (so the water isn't going to be potable). Ahhh...the things we do...

Anyway, I received the drive point itself, along with the couplings and caps (all "water source") today. I'll probably start this weekend.

I have a few last minute questions:

I'm going to use a post hole digger to dig a small "starter hole" a few feet deep. I had read that if I fill this starter hole with water and keep if filled for a few days, the downward draining will soften the intended site and make driving easier. Does this really work?

I'm on Long Island. From past yard work, I know that I have about 18-24" of topsoil, and lots of fine sand under that. My water table is about 14' down. I was going to drive 3, 15' sections plus the 3' drive pipe for a total of 18'. would there be any benefit to going an additional 5' down (to a total of 23')?

When I fit the couplings and pipe together, should I use teflon tape, pipe dope, or both on the joints? What will stand the 'test of time' best?

I ordered 3 drive caps. After doing a lot of reading on this site and elsewhere, I see that a lot of people recommend using a pipe or post driver (or similar tool), but I can't find one locally. If I use the drive caps and a sledge hammer, and go slowly, will I have to worry about screwing up the threads? Bear in mind, I'm going to be going through a lot of sand, so I'm hoping it's not going to be too tough...

Finally, I also read that I should rub a bar of soap on the drive point screening to prevent sand from getting in while I hammer away. Does this work and is it recommended? Not sure if it matters, but I have the 80 gauge gauze pipe.

Thanks in advance...

I believe you mean you have an 80 gauze screen. right?

Drive Caps will screw up your threads. Not just a little but a lot. The important thing is to tighten all joints until the pipe butts inside the coupling. This takes big wrenches and a lot of muscle. If you don't do this, you will have air leaks and probably broken threads underground.

A Pitcher Pump is the easiest way to check for water. Use it after every joint goes in. Once you get some water, usually one more joint is all that is needed.


I have never heard of the soap thing and wouldn't waste my time doing it. The sand will hurt nothing while driving.

bob...

1, In my opinion, you don't need a "starter hole" unless you're trying to T off of the pipe at a lower-than-ground-level to get under a house or building foundation. You should be able to drive a well down in sandy soil.
2. Around here, we usually drive three 1.25" 5' joints and a point (3'-5') for shallow wells, as long as there is no more than 25' from the tip of the point to the pump. You want to have the hand pump up higher than ground level, so you might use another 5' joint, and drive it all so that it's no more than 3' hgh above ground.
3. Here we use a Schedule 80 black iron coupling for driving or a couple of galvanized couplings on either end of a 6" galvanized nipple -- all tightened as tight as possible -- for driving. Then we remove the drive coupling, wrap several flat wraps of teflon tape clockwise only around the pipe threads and tighten on a standard coupling as tight as possible. If you drive it with a sledge hammer, I would have a helper hold a 2X or 4X board or post flat over the drive cap to lessen the shock and potential thread damage.
4. That soap bit sounds like a waste of time. Never heard of such. LOL
Good luck!
Mike