Ice Maker install

I was hoping to install my icemaker semi-soon but have read on here that the saddle valves provided with the kits are prone to failure. If I was indeed to put a T off a line, is the main line coming into the house alright (I know from reading on these forums that the pressure will be fine going from 1/2" to the tiny 1/4" because it's stronger) The main line comes in and basically runs straight over and turns beneath the fridge, going over towards the water heater, and there is already a line ran to this location (the previous owner ran the line, but did not connect it).

Additionally, are the sharkbite connectors alright for simplicity, or should I sweat the T onto the run?

Thanks,
Matt

Finding a 1/2" line to use with a sharkbite is fine.
It's a good idea to use a hammer arrestor with the icemaker too.
They tend to bang the pipes when the trays fill.
1/4" OD tubing is fine for the icemaker hookup.


The one on the left is for a washer.
The one in the center can be soldered onto a tee.
The one on the right can be used inline like for a lav supply or an icemaker line.

But it IS alright to tap off of the main coming in? (the main shutoff comes in, then goes up into the basement joists, and across basically to the fridge)

I've never heard of the water hammer arrester (I looked them up), but I will definitely look into that.

Additionally, there is a filter on the line that the previous owner ran that I would have to assume is at least 5 years old. Do I NEED a filter? I actually have the "summary of water quality" for my county right in front of me listing inorganic chemicals, volatile organic chemicals, microbiological contaminants, radiological contaminants, etc, etc. Is there only certain things I need to worry about affecting the ice maker (it's built into an amana side by side) or some people just want filtered water for their ice? I'm more concerned with me forgetting to change the filter when needed than going out to purchase one.

If your water tastes of chlorine, you may want a filter to remove it. Some of that will be trapped in the ice, and putting that in your drinks some consider annoying. Probably the better location is in the frige itself where they often have an indicator light to tell you it is time to change out. Check that your fridge doesn't have that feature.

A sharkbite T should work fine. You'll also want to put in a shutoff valve, but that can be a compression valve so again, no soldering. Souix City and Watts both make a series of mini hammer arrestors in various configurations that can be installed in line. Don't be talked into just putting a stub of capped copper pipe, and this has the air open to the water, and over time (fairly quickly) the air will be absorbed in the passing water and it is useless. The arrestors have a seal between the air and the water, so the air chamber stays dry and lasts a very long time.

I'm sure the sharkbites are just fine. I'm "old school" myself, so I soldered the tee into the supply line then went into a 1/2" ball valve and reduced and adapted to a 1/4" compression fitting for the tubing. BTW, the pressure will not change because of changing pipe sizes. If there is any question about filter or not, I would use one for peace of mind is nothing else.