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Thread: Can I replace the control unit on this water softener resin tank?

  1. #1

    Default Can I replace the control unit on this water softener resin tank?

    We've had a rainsoft water softener in the house for at least 20 years now. A few years back the resin tank needed to be replaced, so we had that done. Less than a year after that the control unit expired (it doesn't soften or regenerate, but it does backflush).

    I had the people out who have been servicing these two units (our acid neutralizer is next to it) for a long time and he made some phone calls and claimed that parts weren't available for this control unit anymore, but he could replace it (for big bucks). I passed.

    My question is: Can I just buy a new control unit for this resin tank/brine tank? I see that many here recommend the Clack and Fleck valves. Are either of these likely to work? My resin tank is about 4' tall and 8 or 9" in diameter.

    Here's a pic:


    P.S. I know that both units are bypassed right now. Tomorrow I'm replacing the 8" section of copper below the acid neutralizer bypass as it has developed a pin hole.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Cave Creek, Arizona

    Default softener

    Why throw good money after bad? The softener has outlived its usefullness and should be taken off life support. A new softener will have on demand regeneration and a new resin bed.

  3. #3
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Wherever I park the motorhome.


    With acidic water, you should be using plastic to all the equipment.

    I agree with HJ and, your old tank probably will not accept an industry standard control valve. Rainsoft had tanks made to their specs.

    And your AN filter has no top dome hole so they have to come out to service it AND, you have the same type control valve on it as the one on the softener; that aren't made anymore. Plus the fact that the softener is at best a 3/4 cuft unit, if not a 1/2 cuft and probably very undersized. Also, teh control valve on the filter can't be removed very easily when you need to add more mineral.

    They both have earned retirement. I suggest a metered Clack WS-1 control valve on a new softener and possibly a new TDH type AN filter with one also.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.


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