Our residential water system has performed reliably and well since its installation 14 years ago. Recently however, when any upstairs faucet is drawing water and the pump starts, it starts with a bang (water hammer). On the other hand when I open the faucet located below the pressure gauge to draw down the water, the pump starts quietly when the cut-in setting is reached. In addition, as the pump runs and fills the tank, the system produces a kind of rattling sound.
http://garylee.home.att.net/water1.jpg
http://garylee.home.att.net/water2.jpg
The system consists of a Sta-Rite Signature 2000 4†¾ hp submersible water pump, model 10P4D02T-02 (rated 10 GPM). The pump is connected to an Amtrol Well-X-Trol bladder water tank, model WX-250. A Square D pressure switch is set to cut in at 40 PSI and cut out at 60 PSI. The tank pre-charge is 38 PSI. The well is 227 feet deep; the water level is at 110 feet and the pump is down 147 feet.
I have verified that the above pressure settings are correct by shutting off power to the pump and opening the faucet beneath the pressure gauge until the water stopped flowing. Then I checked the pressure in the tank and adjusted it to 38 PSI.
All of the copper pipe you see in the picture has an OD of 1.125 inches. The Well-X-Trol tank documentation that I have indicates that 1†pipe is the recommended size for a flow of up to 16 GPM. The Sta-Rite pump model (10P4D02T-02) is no longer in production, but a Sta_Rite customer service representative told me that it has a flow rate of 10 GPM.
My knowledge of the system is limited to the documentation and manuals that I have and what you see in the pictures. The water system was installed in the fall of 1994. It has not been touched by a plumber since its installation. The only thing I have ever done to the system is to check and adjust the pressure in the tank from time to time. I do not know if any check valves exist other than the one on the pump.
Based on searches I’ve done in this and other plumbing forums, it appears that the water hammer may be caused by a failing check valve on the pump. In any event, it appears that I am going to have to call a plumber and pull the pump for a hands-on check. Given the age of the system, it occurs to me that I may as well consider replacing all or some of the key parts of the system, such as the pump, tank, and pressure switch.
I would appreciate any advice that would enable me to find a cost-effective solution. If I’m looking at a hefty repair bill, I’d just as soon fix it once and for the next 14 years. What would you recommed I do?
http://garylee.home.att.net/water1.jpg
http://garylee.home.att.net/water2.jpg
The system consists of a Sta-Rite Signature 2000 4†¾ hp submersible water pump, model 10P4D02T-02 (rated 10 GPM). The pump is connected to an Amtrol Well-X-Trol bladder water tank, model WX-250. A Square D pressure switch is set to cut in at 40 PSI and cut out at 60 PSI. The tank pre-charge is 38 PSI. The well is 227 feet deep; the water level is at 110 feet and the pump is down 147 feet.
I have verified that the above pressure settings are correct by shutting off power to the pump and opening the faucet beneath the pressure gauge until the water stopped flowing. Then I checked the pressure in the tank and adjusted it to 38 PSI.
All of the copper pipe you see in the picture has an OD of 1.125 inches. The Well-X-Trol tank documentation that I have indicates that 1†pipe is the recommended size for a flow of up to 16 GPM. The Sta-Rite pump model (10P4D02T-02) is no longer in production, but a Sta_Rite customer service representative told me that it has a flow rate of 10 GPM.
My knowledge of the system is limited to the documentation and manuals that I have and what you see in the pictures. The water system was installed in the fall of 1994. It has not been touched by a plumber since its installation. The only thing I have ever done to the system is to check and adjust the pressure in the tank from time to time. I do not know if any check valves exist other than the one on the pump.
Based on searches I’ve done in this and other plumbing forums, it appears that the water hammer may be caused by a failing check valve on the pump. In any event, it appears that I am going to have to call a plumber and pull the pump for a hands-on check. Given the age of the system, it occurs to me that I may as well consider replacing all or some of the key parts of the system, such as the pump, tank, and pressure switch.
I would appreciate any advice that would enable me to find a cost-effective solution. If I’m looking at a hefty repair bill, I’d just as soon fix it once and for the next 14 years. What would you recommed I do?