Need a new pressure tank?

Pretty new to all of this, but here is where I am at.

Had a new well pump put in last year. At the time, the guy increased my pressure since it was pretty low. Since then, have noticed that the pump seems to go on every few minutes when water is running. I can tell as the lights flicker when it clicks on. Also, pressure will increase (such as in shower) likely when the tank is filling up from the pump, and then go back to normal. Bought house just before then, so I do not have a good idea what was going on before that, but something burned out the prior pump, so maybe it was the tank.

Finally, I got around to checking out the pressure tank. It is WX-203. Following instructions in sticky, drained all the water out and checked the pre-charge pressure from the valve on top with a tire guage. It read 20. As it should be 2 below cut-in pressure, clearly this is too low. But I did not know the cut-in/out pressure. [I added air to get pre-charge to 29-see below] So I turned power to pump back on, and left the tire guage on top as it filled. I could see pressure go up, and it stopped at about 60 -- so I assume this is my cut-off, and based on 60 - 20, assume 40 is my cut in. Thus I should have 38 pre-charge...

First off, is this a legitimate way to check the cut-in/off pressure? (the tank pressure guage seems stuck and does not work)

Using hand pump, got pre-charge up to 29 (before I turned the pump back on). After filling, tested pressure from faucet, and it was a LOT better. I then turned down the pressure a bit at D-square (?correct term?), but will have to again check the cut-in/off pressure, and then finalize what the pre-charge should be--assuming the above method is ok, or maybe better do it when tank is low and see where kicks on?.

Question -- with a reading of 20, was that low enough to make the pump cycle on as it did (just spoke to my pump man and he said that 20 is high enough, and he thinks tank is bad and wants to replace). He gave a price of $1400 for a larger tank installed. That is a lot and not what I want to spend now. I will see how it works with the higher pre-charge pressure, but am afraid that still may not be enough to cut down on pump cycles (I did not see any water come out from tank valve, so dont think bag has a hole).

Another question, how hard is it to put in a pressure tank on my own (T-connector)? It seems pretty straightforward, but should I replace other parts as well?

Thanks all

Nothing wrong with using the tire pressure gauge if the gauge on the tank is bad. If the tank was holding 20 PSI of air, the air pressure is low but, the tank is still most likely good. No matter how large a tank you have or how much air is in it, the pump will still cycle on and off unless you are using as much water as the pump can produce. Larger tanks and correct air pressure just slow down the cycling and pressure variance but, the cycling continues. Cycling is the most common cause of "burning up the pump".
Save yourself some money by using a Cycle Stop Valve and a 20 gallon size tank. The tank you have is fine and is just slightly larger than 20 gallon size, and I would never use a tank that small without a Cycle Stop Valve attached.
The Cycle Stop Valve will give you a steady constant pressure as long as you are in the shower. Constant pressure makes a tremendous difference in shower pressure. You won't know how you survived so long without it.
And yes you can do it yourself!

Thanks Valveman.

So you think there is nothing wrong w/ the tank? Maybe the increased cycling is due to low pre-charge pressure... Do you think finding the cut in/out pressure like that is ok?

I have looked over the CSV at that site. It does look interesing. Have any other DIYers here tried it and put it in themselves? Since it has to be put in the line, am I not sure I can do that, as I have never cut open pipe and welded -- but would not mind trying if there is little risk.

$1400 to install a tank???

Wow, I'm not charging enough.

The 203 Well X Trol was too tall and the bag was anchored too low. You couldn't even get a 30 lb differential from that tank with the proper pressure. The bag was probably topping out which was giving you a small draw down. I'm not fond of that particular model, but Well X Trol is a good tank.

Cary is right, go buy a Tank and CSV and all your problems will go away. (your well problems anyway)

bob...

I think it would include fittings as well, and he did say about $800 for a smaller tank.

The largest tank made by Flexcon we install for under $1000.00 and the next size down under $800.00. And of course it includes fittings, labor and a 5 year warranty. He's high.

bob...

Thanks Bob,

If i bought the tank to do myself, what fittings would i need?

I agree WX 203 wasn't their best model but, I have one that is 25 years old now and is still good. All tanks are high these days and getting higher. Just another good reason for a pump man that doesn't want to price himself out of a job, to be using Cycle Stop Valves.

I am curious to the CSVs, but spoke to my a well man, and his reply was why not just buy a bigger tank... Also, not sure i am capable of plumbing it.

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Also re: fittings, is this what i would need? \
Little Giant TTK-114 Tank Tee Kit - 1" 1/4 MNPT Tank Tee, 30/50 PSI Pressure Switch, 0-100 PSI Bottom Mount Pressure Guage, Drain Valve, Pressure Relief Valve, Brass Nipple (577770)

thinking of H2 Pro WWT-85 tank

If your well man is still using big tanks, he is only about 10 years behind in his education. A dozen big tanks can't do what a CSV and a 20 gallon tank can do for you. Course if he makes that kind of money on his big tanks, I can see why he doesn't want to learn anything new.

I don't know where you pricing this tank, but you may save money on my site. I'm not sure about anything Little Giant makes that is for the Water Well industry.

I have the Tank Tee, and all the other goodies you would need to plumb it. It's not hard with the right Tank Tee and all the right things. If you need I can make you a list. If your thinking of the CSV (which I highly recommend) you only need the WWT20 for $146.23.

bob...

quick question. IAny issue putting in a new tank that requires 1 1/4" fitting where there is current a 1" fitting (I would put in a new Tee). The pipe coming from the well i think is 1" and out to house is 3/4".

No problem except that 1 1/4" means you are still using too large of a tank without a CSV.

I spoke to the folks at CSV, and they said w/ my pump, level of well water and the fact i have poly piping from well to my basement, then they may not be comfortable with the pressure the CSV would put going down. So while i would love it, i do not want to risk it based on their feedback. I also do not have high irrigation needs. So, I am just going for a bigger tank to reduce the cycles. That is why i am concerned the bigger 1 1/4" would be too big when it eventually does go down to 3/4" pipe into the house.

The only concern with Pipe size is will it carry the gallons per minute that you need. If your not able to use the CSV and your worring about cycling, make the zones use more water to prevent cycling. Otherwise your just asking for a short lived motor and pump.

bob...

Thanks Bob, but not sure what you mean by make the zones use more water. Do you mean I should have a higher load (fauctes, shower etc) to make use of the bigger tank at any given moment?

He just means that all your irrigation zones need to be large enough to keep the pump from cycling. Nothing you can do about cycling while using water in the house. Thanks for at least considering a CSV.. The 1 1/4" tank fitting is not a problem.

I see, thanks. No, it is just one sprinkler, and it would not be big enough to keep the pump running. but at least with daily house water use, a bigger tank should cut down on the cycles. thanks for confirming there would be no pipe issues. And thanks for everyones help.

Try using more than one sprinkler even if it's off hoses.

bob...