(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Relocating well pump

  1. #1

    Default Relocating well pump

    Hi all, this is my first posting here. Glad I found this forum!

    Our house is on a well with the pump located outside at the well. All the filters and softener is in the garage. I have installed a chemical injection pump at the filters for chlorine and PH. The well is now pumping what is called "red water iron" and keeps fouling out the water flow switch for the injection pump. My last resort is to move the well pump to the garage and eliminate the flow switch.

    Question: The PVC pipe feeding the well pump is 1 1/4" and the line to the house (100+ feet) is 1". The supply line is then reduced to 3/4" to all the filters and softener then 1/2" to the faucets. Can I install the pump where the 1" line reduces to 3/4" or do I have to run the 1 1/4" all the way to the house?

    Thanks for any and all advice!
    Steve

  2. #2
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,156

    Default

    Do away with the flow switch. You should be able to hook up the injector to the same pressure switch that starts the well. That way the pressure switch starts both the well pump and the injector pump. I don't think you want to move that pump to a smaller line.

  3. #3

    Default

    That's what I am going to do, but to leave the pump where it is would mean having a huge box in the front yard. That would house the pump, pressure tank, chemical pump and a 16 gallon chemical tank.

    I know that as distance increases from the well pump that the water line has to be reduced to maitain good pressure. What about the supply line from the well to the pump? Does it have to remain the same size from the well to the pump? It would be 1 1/4" out of the 60' well to the surface, reduced to 1" to run roughly 120' to the pump and 3/4" from the pump.

    Thanks again,
    Steve

  4. #4
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,156

    Default

    The line DOES NOT have to be reduced to get more pressure. In fact it is just the opposite. Larger lines will help you keep from losing pressure to friction loss.

    You can push water a long way with a pump but, the further you try to suck water with the pump the harder it is.

    Going that far to the suction of the pump I would use at least 1 1/4" pipe and 2" would be better. Then leaving the pump that 3/4" is not doing you any good. Stay with as large a pipe as you can before and after the pump.

  5. #5
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fishguy View Post
    Our house is on a well with the pump located outside at the well. All the filters and softener is in the garage. I have installed a chemical injection pump at the filters for chlorine and PH. The well is now pumping what is called "red water iron" and keeps fouling out the water flow switch for the injection pump. My last resort is to move the well pump to the garage and eliminate the flow switch.
    Describe the exact type and order of this water treatment equipment from the well to the house.

    Chlorine oxidizes iron making the water rusty orangish reddish brown.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  6. #6

    Default

    I agree with valveman, the bigger pipe the better you are. Even if you don't notice a pressure change the pump is still working harder meaning more maintenance risk.

    Joe
    Pumps vacuumes

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •